valve adjustment
- Thread starter pz1p
- Start date
Bonniebret
Rocker
drlapo, how hard are they to adjust, really? I have the Triumph shop manual but whenever I look at it to adjust the valves it just seems too intimidating and I bail on it. That said, I've never adjusted my valves.
Last edited:
tooblekain
750cc
Im not sure if it was posted here or at the the Big Brother forum...aka TriumphRAT.net...but someone did a "How-to" write up with pictures on how to do a vavle adjustment and check on his Thruxton. Search the technical bulletins here and maybe over at Big Brother forum.
Ive only done one valve check..and it was with guidance on my Daytona 675. Its a lot easier than I thought....its just REALLY tedious.
Ive only done one valve check..and it was with guidance on my Daytona 675. Its a lot easier than I thought....its just REALLY tedious.
geolpilot
Street Tracker
They are easy to check and fairly hard to adjust. You do not have to disassemble anything to check them, except to take the valve cover off. You DO want to have a torque wrench to tighten the valve cover bolts when you put them back in, they will break EASILY. With the engine cold from sitting overnight, take the tank off and the valve cover off. Raise the rear end of the bike, so you can turn the engine with the rear wheel. Remove the spark plugs so that you can turn the engine. Rotate it so that each valve cam is on the base circle (opposite to the high end of the cam) and measure the clearance with feeler gauges. If it is within spec, then you are good to go. If not, the hard work starts. It is VITAL that they not be too tight!
tooblekain
750cc
Do bear in mind if you decide to turn the cams using the rear wheel (the bike has to be in gear) you are forgoing checking if the timing on the crank is off. If you do the crank method, you don't have to worry about spinning the rear wheel in gear.
technicaly its not too bad but it is a royal pain in the butt to do
it's no big deal in New England as I have 3 months of winter to do it in
the Haynes manual is good too just be sure to lock the split cam gear with the 'pin" before you take the cams out
If you do not feel comfortable with it take it to your dealer you only need to do it every 12000 miles and for most people thats 5 years
it's no big deal in New England as I have 3 months of winter to do it in
the Haynes manual is good too just be sure to lock the split cam gear with the 'pin" before you take the cams out
If you do not feel comfortable with it take it to your dealer you only need to do it every 12000 miles and for most people thats 5 years
question #1 do you have the tools for the job?
If this is your first time you wil need to spend $100+ to get a torque wrench, good set of sockets, feeler guages, micrometer
if you are only going to do this every 4 to 5 years and not use the tools for something else then let the dealer do it
If this is your first time you wil need to spend $100+ to get a torque wrench, good set of sockets, feeler guages, micrometer
if you are only going to do this every 4 to 5 years and not use the tools for something else then let the dealer do it
Baltobonneville
750cc
Buying all the tools needed is still cheaper than having the dealer do it. Figure about $400 for the dealer to do it, versus $100-$300 for all the tools (depending on what you already have), including the Triumph "special tool" for the camshaft gears.
The job is tedious and requires that you do specific things in specific sequence, measure shims, record data, calculate size of shims needed, and put everything back together exactly the same way you took it apart. It's not difficult, just requires a slow, careful, attentive approach.
Propforward did a good pictorial write-up of the process on Triumphrat, and spreadsheets and calculators are available to determine the needed shim sizes.
The job is tedious and requires that you do specific things in specific sequence, measure shims, record data, calculate size of shims needed, and put everything back together exactly the same way you took it apart. It's not difficult, just requires a slow, careful, attentive approach.
Propforward did a good pictorial write-up of the process on Triumphrat, and spreadsheets and calculators are available to determine the needed shim sizes.
sweatmachine
moped
$325 is a pretty good price. DIY is much cheaper though. If you lack the tools or confidence it's probably a good idea for a pro to do the job.
Baltobonneville
750cc
The specs are 0.175 and 0.275, so you're where you need to be.
BlueJ
Blue Haired Freak
Yeesss... reminds me of the recent move from 18 to 19t on the front sprocket. $10 for the part. $20 for the gigantic socket. $85 for the gigantic torque wrench to crank said socket down to 179 nM or whatever.
Then when I went to remove the existing one, I had my son sit on the bike bear down hard on the brakes, I braces myself for the bug pull.... and the damn nut came right off. So I put it back tighter (way tighter) than I found it, and took the un-opened $85 gigantic torque wrench back to the store for a refund.
Valve adjustment, though... scary booo!! The 'Lass had hers adjusted under warranty a year or so ago, and good thing! Because the shop stripped out a cam cover bolt because it was over-tight from the factory, and they had the tools to take care of that little issue, too.
The valves will clack if they have worn loose which is no big deal to wait a bit BUT the tight ones you won't hear and they are the ones that if left long can burn a valve. I am doing mine this winter cause I have loose intake and a tight exhaust valve.
KingBear
Hooligan
Don't Do It Blue-j!!
Hey J, don't even think about paying that kind of cash for a big torque wrench for a special job. I have a 250FtLb Snap-On 1/2" torque wrench you can use anytime. I inherited it through my wife's late husband (a professional mechanic). Probably got the socket too. Thirteen mile drive should seem short to save $105.00. :shh:
ivar
TT Racer
Dove into the valve clearance check tonight. Turns out they're all too tight - and that I need more tools.
- Oil filter wrench
- pins for the cam gears
- new torx bit for the cam holders.
- an extra set of feeler gauges. my set lacked the most important thicknesses.
- borrow a good torque wrench
- Oil filter wrench
- pins for the cam gears
- new torx bit for the cam holders.
- an extra set of feeler gauges. my set lacked the most important thicknesses.
- borrow a good torque wrench