"see through" Bonneville farme

DIRK

750cc
you cannot "go to dmv" with your frame and engine set. the dmv people will just run you around in circles. you will need to make an appointment at your local chp office to have it verified. DO NOT JUST SHOW UP. the verifier will get quite cranky. and you may if the bike is not properly licensed have a new issue to deal with. so a tow is in order. the chp guys are usually good people so humour is always in order
 

FoothillRyder

Two Stroke
you cannot "go to dmv" with your frame and engine set. the dmv people will just run you around in circles. you will need to make an appointment at your local chp office to have it verified. DO NOT JUST SHOW UP. the verifier will get quite cranky. and you may if the bike is not properly licensed have a new issue to deal with. so a tow is in order. the chp guys are usually good people so humour is always in order

I don't know that this is a 'rule'; but when I registered my out-of-state Scrambler the DMV suggested I go to the CHP office (next door) to get the verification done. Although an appointment is recommended, I didn't have one and they were good lads about it. You should be able to get a temporary operating permit from the DMV (what I did), which eliminates the 'new issue' Dirk mentions - assuming of course the bike is rideable.
 

MES

750cc
>"electronics tray under the seat. I have a new high tech battery from Harris that is only one inch thick. So in the tray goes battery, rectifier, horn, fuse box, and all the other shit that sits behind the carbs..."

Our rectifiers get quite hot which is why they are mounted directly in the wind blast.
Heat and vibration are the enemy of rectifiers.

I dodgey rectifier is bad for the stator and battery. also, the heat it gives off will kill your batteryas well as shorten the life of the other conpontents under the seat.

at the very least I would recomend a universal MOSFET type regulator as they don't produce nearly the amount of heat as our stock diode type.

Just a thought.
 

strokerlmt

Moderator
>"electronics tray under the seat. I have a new high tech battery from Harris that is only one inch thick. So in the tray goes battery, rectifier, horn, fuse box, and all the other shit that sits behind the carbs..."

Our rectifiers get quite hot which is why they are mounted directly in the wind blast.
Heat and vibration are the enemy of rectifiers.

I dodgey rectifier is bad for the stator and battery. also, the heat it gives off will kill your batteryas well as shorten the life of the other conpontents under the seat.

at the very least I would recomend a universal MOSFET type regulator as they don't produce nearly the amount of heat as our stock diode type.

Just a thought.

Thx for the input MES. My rectifier is on the back of the battery box in the open right now and I have never had a problem. Don't know if it is my climate but I have never had a even slightly warm rec to the touch. The new frame and tray will have the rectifier under the tray where it will get lots of open air. I'll send you a pic as soon as I get it bolted on....thx
LMT

PS...here is a pic as is now
 

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MES, my reg/rect has been riding on the back of my airbox elimination thingy for over a year now. It sits right in front of my back tire, just above the swingarm. Even in the 100+ degree Texas heat I've never had a problem. I hate to even say it, but I'm running the original battery from when the bike was new. It's over 5 years old now and works fine. Sure as I type this....I'll jinx myself...
 

MES

750cc
There are a lot of factors.
Jeff has had some good luck, just about everybody I know had their battery go after about 4 years.
There have been quite a few people with reg/rec issues. It's pretty common.
(Unfortunately they just replace the reg/rec, if they would check the stator they would might find that they have at least one weak or bad leg and that is what stressed the reg/rec and caused it to fail.)

If you look at the back of the reg/rec you will see that the actually unit is quite small and embedded in a gaint heat sink.

I was just sayen and it's something to be aware of.
 
I would think with the tire and chain whippin' around at speed there would be plenty of air moving around the heat sink. It isn't quite like being out in front of the bike, but there is still air moving around it.
 

strokerlmt

Moderator
There are a lot of factors.
Jeff has had some good luck, just about everybody I know had their battery go after about 4 years.
There have been quite a few people with reg/rec issues. It's pretty common.
(Unfortunately they just replace the reg/rec, if they would check the stator they would might find that they have at least one weak or bad leg and that is what stressed the reg/rec and caused it to fail.)

If you look at the back of the reg/rec you will see that the actually unit is quite small and embedded in a gaint heat sink.

I was just sayen and it's something to be aware of.


MES....I hear you. When I moved the rec I would put my hand on it every time I would stop. Sort of like scratching your balls after a long ride. In summer/winter/short/long rides the rec was never hot. The stock rec is a pretty cheaply made bit. Just wonder if yours was made on a Monday or Friday ;-)))
LMT
My balls are even warmer than the rectifier ;-)))
 

strokerlmt

Moderator
It has been all work lately but I still need some garage time to keep my head on. The "see through frame" is coming together. I did the welding which was a hell of an education .....taught by a good friend who welds art....learned about grinding sanding etc. The front frame rails are reinforced, welded and you can still use the bolts for damper etc. The back bone has been reinforced as per some dirt/street tracker advice and the lower frame rails are gone. The single short megaphone will hang by a BSA bracket from the rear shock mount. The electrics tray was made from a door off an old stainless BBQ. I have a flat high techiee battery that will lie there under the seat. More soon.....
LMT

PS.....an old bike guy told me to get some John Deer buff primer....he said it adheres and is smooth and easy to use. He is right....
 

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I'm very interested to see how it rides with the missing and modified parts. I like that you eliminated the lower rails. I've been thinking about this too.
 

strokerlmt

Moderator
I'm very interested to see how it rides with the missing and modified parts. I like that you eliminated the lower rails. I've been thinking about this too.


There is a sleeve that slides into the square back bone and wish bones into / welded to the back engine rails. The friend that taught me to use his tig welder (lookin over my shoulder) did some load test on the stock back bone then did the same test on my modified back bone and I equally stock strength. Then I was speaking with Matt Capri and he has a bike that he cut the lower rails off and his bike handles great. I have weighed everything I put on and have a box full of what came off. Sooner or later I will weigh this frame and figure out the difference. The lower rails are heavy and some people say all they do is hold the center stand. The exhaust rear rider wish bones are half solid and weigh a ton. The battery box will be gone as well.
BTW...I am not the greatest rattle can painter but this old hot rod gent told me to use John Deer tractor buff primer and satin black. It adheres really well and the black blends and looks great even for me.
More soon I hope.....
LMT
 

strokerlmt

Moderator
This pile of pasta is actually starting to make some sense. See through frame starting to come together with all the electrics under the seat.
LMT

PS...Jeff....the NO lower rails is going to be great.
 

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sportyone

Street Tracker
This pile of pasta is actually starting to make some sense. See through frame starting to come together with all the electrics under the seat.
LMT

PS...Jeff....the NO lower rails is going to be great.

:D so long as it doesn't collapse or bend like a banana when you hit a decent bump ? :D

I reckon Triumph built the frame that way originally for a reason, alittle more than just to attach a centre stand ?? :lol:

hopefully the motor mounts are strong enough to support all including the wheels too :stupid2:
 
This pile of pasta is actually starting to make some sense. See through frame starting to come together with all the electrics under the seat.
LMT

PS...Jeff....the NO lower rails is going to be great.

get rid of whats not required and its looking neater already. strengthen in the right places too :) Mr Wesson did that with a guzzi few years back and made a cracking little custom (using spada or LM motor). Had to make a strengthened front timing case to support the motor, but it worked :)

Looks great so far ;-) :)

Steve
 

strokerlmt

Moderator
:D so long as it doesn't collapse or bend like a banana when you hit a decent bump ? :D

I reckon Triumph built the frame that way originally for a reason, alittle more than just to attach a centre stand ?? :lol:

hopefully the motor mounts are strong enough to support all including the wheels too :stupid2:

I hear what you are saying but the back bone is reinforced and does the same thing as stock, the box is just replaced with pipe. all the tracker bonnevilles have no lower rails. If you go to www.southbaytriumph.com look at Matt Capri's custom 1100cc MIRAGE Bonneville. Time will tell and a good hard ride up the coast will prove ??????????????
LMT

PS.....sportone.....BTW I did the physics based "kanga" stress test.
The frame can stand on its own because the new front rails with the lowers cut off are welded to the frame...not bolted. In the KANGA test you sit the frame on 2X6 wood cuts on the cement garage floor. then the builder of the frame uses a step ladder to reach up and grab a garage ceiling trusse. Then while wearing your riding boots you hang from the trusse and you jump up and down like crazy, using the trusse only for balance, like a kangaroo on the back bone of the frame which BTW did not move after an exhausting 2 dozen kanga jumps.
 
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strokerlmt

Moderator
Ok..... frame done and harness done. The snake by where the seat and tank meet actually tucks under the frame. About a foot of the red/positive wire will be removed. The bottom of the ballistic battery will be painted black.
More soon...
LMT
 

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