Help - need a neutral indicator boot
- Thread starter Beaman
- Start date
Speed3Chris
I like Dick
Beaman,
As I wrote in my previous post, you do not need a new boot. Cut the bottom off of the boot you have...about 1/4" or so where the contacts reside. Solder 18 gauge leads right to the LED leads. Place shrink tube over the solder connections to isolate each side because they are close together at the bottom of the LED. Push the LED with pigtail through the top of the boot. You can wrap the bottom of the boot with electrical tape where the pigtail sticks out. This is a more secure connection than the boot with flexible contacts anyway....how I have my turn signal indicator.
If you can find a replacement boot this will work as well provided the contacts aren't messed up....but if you can't find a replacement, above is your workaround.
Good Luck.
As I wrote in my previous post, you do not need a new boot. Cut the bottom off of the boot you have...about 1/4" or so where the contacts reside. Solder 18 gauge leads right to the LED leads. Place shrink tube over the solder connections to isolate each side because they are close together at the bottom of the LED. Push the LED with pigtail through the top of the boot. You can wrap the bottom of the boot with electrical tape where the pigtail sticks out. This is a more secure connection than the boot with flexible contacts anyway....how I have my turn signal indicator.
If you can find a replacement boot this will work as well provided the contacts aren't messed up....but if you can't find a replacement, above is your workaround.
Good Luck.
Baltobonneville
750cc
I can send you a boot if you really want one. It might not be the "neutral boot", but they're all the same.
You don't have to cut the bottom off the boot to solder the wires. Just slide the boot down the wires, cut off the offending bits, and solder away. Remember to put on the heat-shrink tubing and slide it away from the heat before you start soldering.
I think that if you're going to be in there soldering anyway, as you would if installing a new boot, you might as well just solder in a WLEDx6, although the soldering will be bit more finicky. When it's done, it's done, and you won't be able to see the difference.
You don't have to cut the bottom off the boot to solder the wires. Just slide the boot down the wires, cut off the offending bits, and solder away. Remember to put on the heat-shrink tubing and slide it away from the heat before you start soldering.
I think that if you're going to be in there soldering anyway, as you would if installing a new boot, you might as well just solder in a WLEDx6, although the soldering will be bit more finicky. When it's done, it's done, and you won't be able to see the difference.
Speed3Chris
I like Dick
If you don't cut the bottom of the boot off when soldering the leads then the contacts even if removed makes pushing the LED down far enough into the socket more difficult further stressing the soldered wires. I personally think the WLED is the wrong LED for any of the indicators as it is too powerful....distractingly so. The #74 tri-power is perfect for both neutral and turn signal indicator...very bright but not like a laser beam as with the WLED which also doesn't fit as well into the socket, solder or no solder. I had a WLED bi-polar LED in the turn signal position and it was simply too bright. That is when I wired in diodes so I could use a more conventional #74 Tri Power which is a smaller polar LED as you know.
Last edited:
TC_Dick
TT Racer
if all you need is the boot, you can get that here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/2007-triumph-motorcycle-bonneville-t100/o/m17653
item #14. $3.09
Baltobonneville
750cc
Fit: I had no trouble with a WLEDx6 in the boot. It goes right in, is a good fit, except the base is too big to fit in the bottom of the boot with the clips. But the boot is so long that the bulb doesn't need to sit in the bottom, it can float in there if it has soldered connections.
Beaman, I can cut off a boot with a few inches of wires, or just send the wires, but you're going to have to solder them in anyway, or Posi-Locks might be an alternative, but they're clunky-looking. Maybe you have a friend who is handy with a soldering iron? Don't forget to put the heat-shrink on before you make the connection.
I still think that it's better to solder in the bulb, but that's admittedly more challenging.
E-mail me on macccgh at yahoo dot com.
Beaman, I can cut off a boot with a few inches of wires, or just send the wires, but you're going to have to solder them in anyway, or Posi-Locks might be an alternative, but they're clunky-looking. Maybe you have a friend who is handy with a soldering iron? Don't forget to put the heat-shrink on before you make the connection.
I still think that it's better to solder in the bulb, but that's admittedly more challenging.
E-mail me on macccgh at yahoo dot com.
Speed3Chris
I like Dick
While I agree with you Balto that soldering is the best way to go, to me, the WLED is simply too bright. I know the 2 diode wiring scheme isn't for anybody but a #74 Tri Power in all indicator positions hits the mark on illumination and a better fit inside the boots. For the high beam for those interested, leave the stock lamp in or go with a #74 single pixel LED for reduced brightness as too bright a high beam indicator at night can be distracting.
Baltobonneville
750cc
Yes, the WLEDx6 is easily visible in bright sunlight and is very bright at night. Personally, I can live with that, since most of my riding is in daylight. And I agree about the high-beam light, I left mine stock.
The Superlumination #74 tri-power is a good alternative. I put one in my oil light after I destroyed the wires on the trimmed WLEDx6 trying to jam it in. For some reason, it didn't want to seat, although I got the two green ones in. This was at least two years ago, and all three are still working well, along with the blue LEDs in the clocks.
An aside: Current leakage makes them glow very dimly when "off", visible at night. The oil light is dim red, and the neutral is a barely-visible green. It doesn't bother me.
The Superlumination #74 tri-power is a good alternative. I put one in my oil light after I destroyed the wires on the trimmed WLEDx6 trying to jam it in. For some reason, it didn't want to seat, although I got the two green ones in. This was at least two years ago, and all three are still working well, along with the blue LEDs in the clocks.
An aside: Current leakage makes them glow very dimly when "off", visible at night. The oil light is dim red, and the neutral is a barely-visible green. It doesn't bother me.
Speed3Chris
I like Dick
Balto,
I heard about the light leakage you speak of but have never witnessed it.
Bad eyes I guess and why I need LED's.
I heard about the light leakage you speak of but have never witnessed it.
Bad eyes I guess and why I need LED's.