Engine Removal Project

Hedge

American Infidel
Big Problem

So I get a call that the engine is now back together but it wont hand crank. Its 100% bound up. Turns out, thanks to Mike's input, that the hole where the crank sits in somehow shrunk buy a pubic hair but enough to bind the crank when the 2 halves of the case are buttoned up.

This is the hole to the Left. Mike said it happened to one of his first engines and he feels my pain. All is not lost though, i found a machine shop that does the type of honing work that needs to be done on that hole to make it bigger. I pick the engine up tomorrow and drop it off to get it done. No idea of the cost yet. Mike can chime in and give a better explanation of the problem then i can. Not having that much fun anymore . . . :d
 
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rndtaylor1

Scooter
No expert here, but I have spent my entire walking life repairing mechanical and other devices, but it sounds as though the hole has not "shrunk", but that the case has warped.
It takes a lot of heat to do that.

Either way, the remedy is the same. Align boring is the only way to get all the rotating pieces in perfect alignment.

Dammit Hedge... are you just not living right?

Maybe you have angered the Gods of stripper etiquette?
Would that be St. Kitten?

You deserve better than this.

Press on, Brother.
 

Hedge

American Infidel
Update

So I bring the engine over to the shop and they tell me that they don't actually do this kind of work and that they will send it out to NY. I decide not to middle it out to another middler and take it back. Gonna have a guy from Nyack NY, who is presently on vacation but returning on the 23rd, who specializes in this kind of work do it. Now we wait!
 

drlapo

Hooligan
it needs to be accuratly line bored
it can be done but good equipement is needed
the bearing surfaces must be in line and exactly the right size
good luck
 

strokerlmt

Moderator
Wow Hedge….what a drag…..not trying to be a jerk but I always try to go back to the simple stuff again. IF it takes a shit load of heat to warp the "hole/engine housing" then why didn't you have a lot more issues than just the oil pumps ???? Was it something else that perhaps was binding ? I remember when I got my re built Bill Gately engine that I couldn't hand crank it either. His instructions were to spray a shit load of WD40 down the plug holes….let it soak ….then hand crank….no joy…..so I got on the phone with Bill and after some talking I put a 3 foot bar on the allen and pop away I went smooth as can be ……just a thought….
LMT
 

mikenva

Rocker
The trouble is that the holes where not bored right at triumph. The holes are in spec from right to left but to small up and down. I think what caused this could be one of 2 things. ether the cases where aligned bored the old way with the cases bolted together and there was burs or trash in between them. That are gone after you run the motor awhile then pull it apart and put it back together(causeing the cases to fit tighter with each other.
Or the case bores are done with a cnc mill one half at a time and something went wrong with the mill.(a lot of new stuff is done this way but I don't like it.ether way the holes are lined up there just out of round so they need to be honed round all at the same time a sunnen machine can do this if the guy has the right tooling.I have had 2 fixed one for my self and one for bill gately when I was dealing with the crook.
When these motors are built right they are not hard to turn over when new a allen wrench in the alt bolt should be all that's needed.
triumph does not care they have this trouble by the way they don't want to even see the bad cases,holes don't get smaller with age lolif anything up and down they get bigger up and down is where they take a beating.
 

normandy

Street Tracker
Sorry to hear that Hedge, thought you had it cased.

I guess that answers my earlier question of what was keeping the engine from turning over.
 

bonZa

Street Tracker
makes you wonder if the crank case tightening procedure has been followed correctly as the FSM procedure for assembling the crankcase states

"Failure to use the correct tightening procedure will result in a tight engine and premature wear of a range of engine components"
 

Hedge

American Infidel
Progress Report

So I'm still here! Running a little behind on the project though. I just dropped off the engine today at Olsen Engines http://olsenengines.com/ to get Line Bored. I am impressed with his motor shop. I will update you all with progress as it comes in . . .
 

Roger

Street Tracker
Hedge, that is something I was not expecting. I haven't heard of a factory bore being so out of spec that it binds up the bearings. What mikenva was saying totally makes sense though. Sounds like your engine hit the factory mill around quitting time on a Friday.

At least you have your engine at a machine shop that looks like they have what it takes to do a proper job of it. Olsen has some nice toys in his shop. This is really something your average bike owner should not have to deal with. I'm wondering how many more engine cases are out there that are on the verge and a problem like overheating will lock them up as well.

The day is coming though that you will get your engine back and the crank will turn as it should. Then you can get back to the task of assembly. Looking forward to that.

The trouble is that the holes where not bored right at triumph.

Or the case bores are done with a cnc mill one half at a time and something went wrong with the mill.(a lot of new stuff is done this way but I don't like it.ether way the holes are lined up there just out of round so they need to be honed round all at the same time a sunnen machine can do this if the guy has the right tooling.

I read that and I'm thinking, that is just so wrong. This method of machining can introduce all kinds of problems. Question is, do they match case halves before milling each one and then pair them up again? If so, did the factory mix up the case halves? Were the cutting bits at the end of service? Who the hell knows? We will never get answers to this.

I just think it is wrong to use this method to machine any case bores. All this just to save time on assembling and disassembling again. Quality within acceptable tolerances lol. I'm with you on this mike. I don't like it.
 

Hedge

American Infidel
Its taken many years since the reintroduced the Bonneville made outside of England but we are now seeing the results of this. And Yes Roger you and Mike are right - poor quality control to save money!
 

Hedge

American Infidel
Not Looking Good

So I got the cases back from the guy who did the line bore and returned it to the guy who will re-assemble it. After line boring the cases the guy measured it up for me and determined that the Blue bearings were the correct match. Unfortunately when the cases are re-torqued down with the new bearings it still will not freely turn \ rotate. Therefore, the case, crank, pistons and bearings have now all gone back to the line bore shop. I am so disappointed to where this is going . . .

As a matter of fact, I have gotten so discusted with this that I went out and bought a brand new leftover 2014 Honda CB1100 Special Black Edition. I have been spending all my time completely modifying it. Tonight I button the headlight back up (did a rewire job for different turn signals) and then I slap the plate on and break her in tomorrow and Sunday.

  • Ryujin hand bent full SS Exhaust in Black
  • Don Guhl ECU re-flash
  • TSR Air Intake Funnel
  • K&N Air Filter
  • o2 Sensor eliminator
  • Whitehouse: Hakofugu Short fender kit
  • Whitehouse: Hakofugu Napoleon mirrors
  • Posh turn signals (Black housing \ Clear lens)
  • TSR Drive Sprocket
  • Pazzo levers
  • Oberon touring foot pegs
  • Kijima Black Grab Bar
Yes - before and after pictures coming!
 
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