Need New Rear Bearings
- Thread starter BluBonnie
- Start date
BluBonnie
1234 .. I'm a moron
Oh, this is DEFINITELY the rear bearings!
It's a repetitive squeak when moving slowly (like in a parking lot, or rolling out of the garage).
At slow speed I can feel it in the rear when I turn to the right - so it's the right side going.
It's a shudder or vibration (depending upon how hard you're leaning in).
You will know it when it starts to happen!
And it's easy to deduce once you hear the noise too. (Just walk the bike a couple steps and listen for direction of sound.)
It's the third of fourth set for me.
I've got an '02 Bonnie, with about 46K on it.
Didn't get far on the original OEM set.
Replaced them (under warranty) with a better quality set. [paid difference]
Got lots of miles out of them.
Made some changes to the rear suspension and wheel - and only had access to OEM bearings. I used those, and didn't get very far (about 10K I think).
Looking for proper sizings so I can find some really good bearings for replacement.
It's a repetitive squeak when moving slowly (like in a parking lot, or rolling out of the garage).
At slow speed I can feel it in the rear when I turn to the right - so it's the right side going.
It's a shudder or vibration (depending upon how hard you're leaning in).
You will know it when it starts to happen!
And it's easy to deduce once you hear the noise too. (Just walk the bike a couple steps and listen for direction of sound.)
It's the third of fourth set for me.
I've got an '02 Bonnie, with about 46K on it.
Didn't get far on the original OEM set.
Replaced them (under warranty) with a better quality set. [paid difference]
Got lots of miles out of them.
Made some changes to the rear suspension and wheel - and only had access to OEM bearings. I used those, and didn't get very far (about 10K I think).
Looking for proper sizings so I can find some really good bearings for replacement.
ThruxTonUp
TT Racer
Very interesting Paul, I've 36000 on the thrux with the original bearings still working fine. I wonder if some type of machining flaw is putting a little more stress on your hub - something along the lines of the way the bearings are seated?? Seems like a lot of bearings to be replacing.
bonnevillebilly
Banned
Hmmmm. I just recently checked my rear wheel bearings.
the same sealed stock set and they seem to be fine on my bike with 26000 on her.
3-4 sets sure don't seem right
ThruxTonUp could be on to some thing there, some thing not aligned right in the hub?
This is the first I have heard of any problems with wheel bearings.
Bill
the same sealed stock set and they seem to be fine on my bike with 26000 on her.
3-4 sets sure don't seem right
ThruxTonUp could be on to some thing there, some thing not aligned right in the hub?
This is the first I have heard of any problems with wheel bearings.
Bill
BluBonnie
1234 .. I'm a moron
yep, while my ass may be a little fat- you're just an ASS.
big diff.
as well, i can always lose weight- you'll ALWAYS be UGLY, and deformed.
BluBonnie
1234 .. I'm a moron
Hmmmm. I just recently checked my rear wheel bearings.
the same sealed stock set and they seem to be fine on my bike with 26000 on her.
3-4 sets sure don't seem right
ThruxTonUp could be on to some thing there, some thing not aligned right in the hub?
This is the first I have heard of any problems with wheel bearings.
Bill
There is some back story to clarify.
It's really too long to share.
Suffice to say, my OEM rear hub has never been 'right'.
Straight from the factory- just slightly oblong.
Making matters worse- apprentice lot boy at my dealership hammered the first replacement set in.
[for the uninitiated, this is not the proper way to do it]
Partial fix (again, half assed) warranty repair (no replacement as it should have been) was just 'okay'.
Better bearings were used. Lasted quite a while (10's of k's).
Eventually the hub was 'reconstituted', then CNC'd to a perfect seat- but, like I said, I only had access to the shitty $3.00 OEM bearings to fit in.
About 8K back, during a tire change, the dust cover was left off- therein the problem with this right side one.
I want to replace them both with a better alternative.
Thinking Timkin, or Impex (German).
Don't have my Shop Manual handy (lent it to someone).
Just looking for sizing is all - then I can go from there.
Thanks.
p.
bonnevillebilly
Banned
I just went through both my triumph service manual and my Haynes manual
and neither one has a specification for what size the wheel bearings are.
You may have to pull them out to get the numbers.
Bill
and neither one has a specification for what size the wheel bearings are.
You may have to pull them out to get the numbers.
Bill
Bearings
I just asked because I have a "squeek" @ slow speed. I thought maybe brakes?
Doesnt seem real bad? Wondered what to look/ listen for? Sometimes its there & sometimes n0t. Just got back from Bike nite ride. Noise not there, but it is almost before/ after every ride. Had as litttle grease splatter on the disc 1x.
I am not real concerned- but if something is goiong south, I wanna know before I go on the bigggy north! The grease splatter made a real nice pulsating on the brakes till I cleaned it off. Made it feel like a warped rotor which it turned out NOT to be! Amny other symptoms??
I just asked because I have a "squeek" @ slow speed. I thought maybe brakes?
Doesnt seem real bad? Wondered what to look/ listen for? Sometimes its there & sometimes n0t. Just got back from Bike nite ride. Noise not there, but it is almost before/ after every ride. Had as litttle grease splatter on the disc 1x.
I am not real concerned- but if something is goiong south, I wanna know before I go on the bigggy north! The grease splatter made a real nice pulsating on the brakes till I cleaned it off. Made it feel like a warped rotor which it turned out NOT to be! Amny other symptoms??
RonD
Scooter
my two cents worth wheel bearings usually last for many thousands of Ks most squeaks you hear that are wheel related are simply brake pads rubbing against the disc.
wheel bearing tension cant really be stuffed up, tell me if iam wrong ,the ouside edges of your bearing act on the machined internal surfaces of your hub, the clearence tollerance in your bearing is defined by your spacer acting on the internal bearing surfaces, imposible to stuff up unless you have an internal spacer thats incorect which should ne near on impossible.
wheel bearing tension cant really be stuffed up, tell me if iam wrong ,the ouside edges of your bearing act on the machined internal surfaces of your hub, the clearence tollerance in your bearing is defined by your spacer acting on the internal bearing surfaces, imposible to stuff up unless you have an internal spacer thats incorect which should ne near on impossible.
BluBonnie
1234 .. I'm a moron
On aircraft wheel bearings (usually tapered) the suspension of the 'race' is critical to optimum performance.
Wherein the mounting of the cradle within which the actual bearings reside is 'set' to tight tolerances on shoulders of the axel and wheel hub.
The bearings in our wheels (as I've seen) are straight.
The axel supports (tightly) the inner race, where the outer race is captured by the hub.
The proper way to put the bearing package in is by pressing them in, evenly.
My 'problem' is due to a poorly manufactured hub (originally- damn thing should have been rejected). It was slightly out of round at the seat- but not discovered until I'd had a few thousand miles on it.
Condition also further exacerbated by some hack hammering a replacement in (further elongating the original problem).
Triumph would NOT warranty the hub.
Believe me, we went around and around about it.
Mainly due to the fact that the hack had his way with it, not their problem.
Probably, before that, they would have sent me a new wheel.
The dealership pawned the issue off on Triumph and kept me at arms length in so doing- thereby avoiding their responsibility.
And then they sold to Arizona Motorsports- and those guys certainly weren't going to cover the repair/replacement- it wasn't their problem.
However, this does not cover the issue of the OEM bearings being of shit quality.
I mean, they really are $4.00 USD items!!
That's what I've got in there now- and they're squealing.
Remember- Triumph built a fine Bonneville prototype back in 2000.
Then they set about to backward engineer the thing so it was cheap to make.
To include nearly every component, er, like WHEELS & SPOKES?!
That is the nature of these things- just gotta live with it.
1. finding a used rear hub or wheel for a Bonnie is nigh unto impossible.
2. I've got an excellent set of Italian wire wheels that are 1/4 inch to narrow for the Bonnie spacing. I'd put them on in a minute, if not for that.
3. the seat on my hub is good, but the bearing (OEM) is not. just looking for size is all.
Thanks for any and all contributions y'all have made in this regard.
Wherein the mounting of the cradle within which the actual bearings reside is 'set' to tight tolerances on shoulders of the axel and wheel hub.
The bearings in our wheels (as I've seen) are straight.
The axel supports (tightly) the inner race, where the outer race is captured by the hub.
The proper way to put the bearing package in is by pressing them in, evenly.
My 'problem' is due to a poorly manufactured hub (originally- damn thing should have been rejected). It was slightly out of round at the seat- but not discovered until I'd had a few thousand miles on it.
Condition also further exacerbated by some hack hammering a replacement in (further elongating the original problem).
Triumph would NOT warranty the hub.
Believe me, we went around and around about it.
Mainly due to the fact that the hack had his way with it, not their problem.
Probably, before that, they would have sent me a new wheel.
The dealership pawned the issue off on Triumph and kept me at arms length in so doing- thereby avoiding their responsibility.
And then they sold to Arizona Motorsports- and those guys certainly weren't going to cover the repair/replacement- it wasn't their problem.
However, this does not cover the issue of the OEM bearings being of shit quality.
I mean, they really are $4.00 USD items!!
That's what I've got in there now- and they're squealing.
Remember- Triumph built a fine Bonneville prototype back in 2000.
Then they set about to backward engineer the thing so it was cheap to make.
To include nearly every component, er, like WHEELS & SPOKES?!
That is the nature of these things- just gotta live with it.
1. finding a used rear hub or wheel for a Bonnie is nigh unto impossible.
2. I've got an excellent set of Italian wire wheels that are 1/4 inch to narrow for the Bonnie spacing. I'd put them on in a minute, if not for that.
3. the seat on my hub is good, but the bearing (OEM) is not. just looking for size is all.
Thanks for any and all contributions y'all have made in this regard.
BluBonnie
1234 .. I'm a moron
ThruxTonUp
TT Racer
This may be a good excuse to get one of the "new" rear hubs designed to eliminate spoke breakage and hopefully your bearing problem is also eliminated.
ivar
TT Racer
I 've got the same squeal now, a little over 10000 miles. I wonder if it may have appeared after I went down in a 30Mph spill last year or if its coincidental...
Over on trat.net, I've read some threads re: front axles not being straight, causing all sorts of trouble. Could a tweaked rear axle cause trouble with the bearings..?
Over on trat.net, I've read some threads re: front axles not being straight, causing all sorts of trouble. Could a tweaked rear axle cause trouble with the bearings..?
BluBonnie
1234 .. I'm a moron
Yeah. That's an option.
Also, the one Jenks is having made (CNC'd nicely). But it's probably big $$$.
I guess same goes for the Triumph hubs!
p.
SCBonneville
Two Stroke
A little info on this bearing thing...
I had to replace the front wheel bearings after one started to "squwall"...
And I had to rebuild the rear hub after I left a spacer out while re-installing the rear wheel... Tore the snot out of that hub!
Both where the results of the stresses of running the sidehack on the Bonnie... The rear hub problem would not have happened but for my stupidity....
One... The bearings that Triumph uses are NOT sealed bearing... They have a seal on one side only...
Two... Using the bearing number on the bearing, you can source superior, fully sealed bearings from any good bearing supply house for 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of buying replacements Triumph bearings...
My dealer has a supplier he sources bearings through and passes on the savings... and better product...
I had to replace the front wheel bearings after one started to "squwall"...
And I had to rebuild the rear hub after I left a spacer out while re-installing the rear wheel... Tore the snot out of that hub!
Both where the results of the stresses of running the sidehack on the Bonnie... The rear hub problem would not have happened but for my stupidity....
One... The bearings that Triumph uses are NOT sealed bearing... They have a seal on one side only...
Two... Using the bearing number on the bearing, you can source superior, fully sealed bearings from any good bearing supply house for 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of buying replacements Triumph bearings...
My dealer has a supplier he sources bearings through and passes on the savings... and better product...
The speedmaster wheels must be different from the bonny's cause my bearings are sealed both sides AND you get a third bearing to help pick up the stress cause of the cush drive. With the weight of a bike and rider, bearings should last a long time if there are no problems.