Horn Relocation...

Speed3Chris

Speed3Chris

I like Dick
Thanks Pikey on the heads up on the NB horn...read similar accounts that it isn't much if any improvement.

Rum...as to relays...
Disk and small electric horns, only draw about 5 amps or so...so no need for a relay. Yes adding a relay will make them fractionally louder because there is less resistance loss with wiring to the battery with larger gauge wires, most with small horns including Triumph don't use one.
Air horns generally draw 10-20 amps. So a relay is recommended.

If somebody knows of a loud yet small horn...mutually exclusive :)...that will fit under the tank, please let us know.
Thanks.
 
T

TXRider60

Scooter
Just replaced the stock horn with the 123dB Stebel from newbonneville.com (shown in SweatMachine's post)... My next step is to reinstall the stock VW bug-sounding horn, plus a relay, to give the two-tone honk. As for volume, the replacement is more piercing than stock (so it might be more audible) but it's not a lot louder.
 
Speed3Chris

Speed3Chris

I like Dick
Tx,
Is it confirmed the stock horn look alike replacement sold by NB, is made by Stebel?
Sweat mentioned Fiamm for that horn is why I ask.
 
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Speed3Chris

Speed3Chris

I like Dick
Horn Relo pics…

Based upon everybody’s input, thought I would make it easier for those considering relocating their horn to clean up the front of the bike. It really looks better without the horn. I had another reason however and that is I raised my fork tubes about 8mm. The reason to raise the fork tubes which slightly lowers the front of the frame is to increase turn in response a bit which on the 19 inch wheel bike, improves handling. Btw, I like that change and no sacrifice to high speed stability….or very little. Pushing the forks up in the triple trees however can put the fender in harms way of the horn in the event of a pesky pot hole and sure didn’t want to go there.

As suggested, the AI valve respirator holes are in great position to move the horn.
Below are a couple of pics…one showing the attachment bolt securing the stock horn bracket to the frame.

HornRelocation2.jpg


HornRelocation3.jpg


You have to remove your AI plumbing first of course which in my experience has been a good thing. I used the rear threaded hole of the two to attach the std. horn bracket. So this is really a plug and play relocation. Other good news is no need to lengthen the wire leads either. You can also do this with the tank on….what I did. No it isn’t easy to fumble under the tank with it on. I have an EFI bike and not sure if access is easier under the tank compared to carb’ed bikes…but the job can be done with the tank in place from the right side of the bike though it will test your patience. The bracket just needs to be bent a small amount to position the stock disk horn vertically between the humps in the cam cover. The end result is ample clearance between the horn and the top of the cam cover also taking into account engine vibration.

Lastly, the horn is transparent from the outside. A side view of the bike:

HornRelocation4.jpg


For time being I'm gonna run with the stock horn. I believe the horn under the tank is just as loud as before which I know isn’t saying much but reports from this thread suggest that similar replacement electric horns aren’t much better and one pretty much has to go to an air horn for a substantive improvement.
Thanks for everybody’s advice that helped me do this.
 
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Speed3Chris

Speed3Chris

I like Dick
sweatmachine said:
Good job!

I bet it was a pain in the ass to do that with the tank in place.
Click to expand...
It was. :)
Six of one, half dozen of the other...pull the tank versus suck it up...took me a while to fish it in there...taped the edge of the tank for protection...yada...just one bolt. EFI bikes might have a bit more room under there because of the fuel pump...it really isn't that tight...done a whole lot worse as no doubt you have. 'Nother option is, to simply rotate the tank up in back and prop it up with a block of wood. Got away with not doing it but that was plan B.

When I take the tank off next...when I pull the cams or do some head work...I will probably make a better bracket and/or install a stronger horn.
Thanks again for your advice Sweat.
 
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