Engine Removal Project

Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
[FONT=&quot]Engine is out! [/FONT]Kind of strange that I cannot post pix with photobucket directly and only links. Haven't done this in a long time so I probably forgot . . .

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/...ject/7E085356-A5D4-4283-A8A3-CDBA595CB1E9.jpg

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/...ject/7ED03072-D054-4008-BE9F-2B51D5E87837.jpg

[FONT=&quot]Moved it into my machine shop and got it up onto the bench[/FONT]
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/...ject/06FCAA0C-6CD2-42C2-A23C-DAAE7DCB2DA7.jpg
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
Only 4 things that popped off and I’m not sure what they are or where they go . . .
Here is 3 of them –




Here is the 4th –

 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
So to re-cap, the problem started with leaking oil and engine smoking. I brought it down to the dealer and they said that I melted both oil pumps and ruined the oil pump gears.

Funny though – the oil pumps look perfect and spin perfect. As I begin to take the engine apart I see

 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
I fucked up 2 areas on left with a screwdriver trying to separate it . . . can I just gently grind it down with a wire wheel or just leave it because it won’t make a difference?


 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
So far every thing looks flawless inside but the crank will not turn with breaker bar and socket. This is where I am at now. I am ready to take the next step of disassembly and looking for pointers.



 
N

normandy

Street Tracker
Hedge said:
I fucked up 2 areas on left with a screwdriver trying to separate it . . .


It depends on whether the gasket is thick enough to make up the difference. I would put a thin layer of high temperature gasket cement on it to be sure. Trying to grind it may round the surface and make it worse.

I have never torn down my engine and can't help further but sure am curious as to why it won't turn over. Looking forward to your updates.
Click to expand...
 
marty

marty

Scooter
Looking at the damage, I would say the lower one would be OK just dressing up any burrs as the sealing surface on the inner face of the bolt hole is Ok and this is where the seal takes effect.
As for the one on the upper corner, some kind of metal repair like Devcon may work after cleaning up any burrs.
 
Roger

Roger

Street Tracker
Those two nicks on the gasket surface are the least of your worries right now. What has me concerned is that picture of the pump gears. The broken gear at 10 o'clock appears to have 5 damaged teeth and it almost looks like something rolled against those teeth between the gear and the engine case. That kind of damage just doesn't happen from normal operation and it looks like that gear was flexed just enough to cause it to crack and break apart.

If this were my engine, I would be doing a complete tear down to find any other bits that might be in either the transmission or engine case. Both oil pumps need to be looked at as well. I don't think the transmission will be a major concern but it still needs to be inspected.

I would start by taking the cam cover off and making sure that none of the valves are loaded or being compressed. If you take a camshaft out while under tension, something else might get damaged. Take your time and use care when trying to turn the crank. Don't pry against the case to force the crank gear around.

Once the head is off, you can check the cylinders for scoring. Heavy scoring will make the pistons bind to the cylinders and cause problems when trying to remove the cylinders. If the cylinders are okay, then they will come off easily. If the crank still isn't spinning, remove the pistons from the connecting rods and then you will need to split the case to get the crank out.

Wish you the best of luck getting this sorted. At least it is winter not that that will help much.

Note: Don't use wire wheels or grinders on aluminium cases. Use hand tools only. Power tools are too aggresive and are meant for iron castings.
 
bonZa

bonZa

Street Tracker
Roger said:
Note: Don't use wire wheels or grinders on aluminium cases. Use hand tools only. Power tools are too aggresive and are meant for iron castings.
Click to expand...

yep, use a smooth flat file to take off the high spots
 
S

strokerlmt

Moderator
Hedge said:
Only 4 things that popped off and I’m not sure what they are or where they go . . .
Here is 3 of them –




Here is the 4th –

Click to expand...

I believe the round pin goes in the crank cover to help line up when you are putting back on. The spring looks like the one that fits on the clutch rod that depresses when you squeeze the clutch. I burred the engine housing as well when removing the cover. I took a very good fine flat file and carefully worked the burr off and did not bight into the housing. IMHO do NOT use a grinder, no need. Mine wasn't very deep and I did not need any gasket compound but if my cut had been a little deeper I would have gooped up that spot when putting back together. I have found with stock gaskets and putting the covers back on that after I have carefully rotated the tighten down sequence to torque specs that I give it a 1/4 turn more. I have never had a leak. good luck….
LMT
 
geolpilot

geolpilot

Street Tracker
For what it is worth, I have had great luck with permatex liquid aviation gasket cement. I learned about on my airplanes. I had an air compressor which regularly blew the head gasket. That stuff on both sides and it hasn't blown in 15 years!
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
Update 01

First of all - thank you to all who have replied and offered advice. I have to say that looking at this engine on my workbench and looking at the Triumph Service Manual I got very nervous that I might have bitten off more than I can handle. I emailed Sweat and told him about my problems and he got right back to me. One of his suggestions was to read through the skinny Haynes manual. This morning, I figured i would stick my nose into the skinny book. Low and behold they have step by step clear cut directions for the removal and complete disassemble of the engine with real pictures. They state it is not as hard as you might think. I am in the process of reading through the whole process first then taking it step by step very slowly and documenting and snapping pictures of everything. I'm already feeling more comfortable about being able to do this. I will, of course have many questions during the process so I will appreciate all feedback and advice. They state in the book that I should budget 2 weeks at least . . . well I have 2 months to do this so I'm right on schedule. :wave:
 
S

strokerlmt

Moderator
Hedge…..Haynes is great. I was very intimidated as well. I used lots of blue tape and notes to remind me of things later. You can do it…good luck.
LMT
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
BlueJ said:
I'm pretty sure that one on the lower left is supposed to be in one piece. Just my $0.02 worth!
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure you were born without Blue hair . . . but hell I could be wrong about that as well!
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
Question 1

So in the Haynes Manual on page 2.14 they have a picture 8.4a about the camshaft lobe Position and in 8.4e they show a picture of the lines and dots lining up. Mine do not look like that or line up like that.




I assume it might not matter since I'm taking it completely apart? Not sure how to proceed since my engine is locked up.
 
S

strokerlmt

Moderator
Hedge said:
So in the Haynes Manual on page 2.14 they have a picture 8.4a about the camshaft lobe Position and in 8.4e they show a picture of the lines and dots lining up. Mine do not look like that or line up like that.




I assume it might not matter since I'm taking it completely apart? Not sure how to proceed since my engine is locked up.
Click to expand...


I believe you line up when you put the engine back together.
LMT
 
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