Engine Removal Project

Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
strokerlmt said:
I believe you line up when you put the engine back together.
LMT
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking but I have to ask these questions before I proceed. I am going to need a good list from one of you guys for the tools and parts I should order in advance.
 
D

drlapo

Hooligan
you're going to need the pins to lock the split gear on the cams
it's 20mm long
turn 11 mm down to 4.1mm
turn the next 9mm to 6 mm
this will leave 10mm at 10mm
it can be turned down from a 3/8' rod, brass will work
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
drlapo said:
you're going to need the pins to lock the split gear on the cams
it's 20mm long
turn 11 mm down to 4.1mm
turn the next 9mm to 6 mm
this will leave 10mm at 10mm
it can be turned down from a 3/8' rod, brass will work
Click to expand...
Thanks Doc - but if I'm taking it apart do I need to do this now or on the rebuild. I must be missing something. If I pin those and then take out the cams and gears and valves and whatnot won't it be unnecessary to pin?
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
T30 broke

Well I was able to slightly loosen all the camshaft holders except for 2. The T30 broke off in one of them but I was able to pop out the broken part from the star hole.

Now What?
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
T30 Broke

I just ordered 2 new ones. I'm thinking I need to use them with a Impact wrench. Thoughts?
 
Roger

Roger

Street Tracker
Just a quick reply. I'm on my way to work. That Torx bit is a tamper proof with the center cored out. It is weaker. You need to get a solid Torx bit. And don't buy any chinese piece of crap tools. Those will twist or break. I guarantee it.

Don't recommend using an impact driver on the head. Get a longer wrench and make sure that you force the bit down square into the bolt head.
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
Roger said:
Just a quick reply. I'm on my way to work. That Torx bit is a tamper proof with the center cored out. It is weaker. You need to get a solid Torx bit. And don't buy any chinese piece of crap tools. Those will twist or break. I guarantee it.

Don't recommend using an impact driver on the head. Get a longer wrench and make sure that you force the bit down square into the bolt head.
Click to expand...

Thanks Roger and noted
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
Question 2

So as you guys know, I cannot move the cams to line up the gears. After talking with Doc today I went home and re tightened the cam bolts and 1 of the 2 that wouldn't move now moves. I then removed the cam chain tensioner and that didn't loosen the cam chain one bit. So I'm stuck! What do I do now to remove the heads and get on with the investigation?
 
Roger

Roger

Street Tracker
EDIT: You replied just as I was composing this post.

Can you remove the cam chain tensioner? If you remove it, the cam chain might still have tension on it if one of the cam lobes is pressing down on a valve. If this is the case, be careful when trying to lift the chain off the driven gear. Keep your fingers clear of the gears. I don't know how much force the valve springs exert on the cam lobes.

If the chain is loose you should be able to lift the chain off the driven shaft and then turn the camshafts to unload the valves that are being held open.

I hope that drlapo has some good info for you too.

Manual pages for Chain Tensioner.
A bit of a warning before clicking these links. Postimage must feel it is necessary to post pictures of clothing-challenged women at the bottom of each page.

http://postimg.org/image/5slgeau9n/

http://postimg.org/image/q3spmux8b/

http://postimg.org/image/dmm1zp22j/

http://postimg.org/image/t9dbd2fuj/
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
Thanks Roger - I have both the Triumph Service Manual and the Haynes. I have already removed the chain tensioner and the chain will not budge. I'm kinda screwed. I have to believe that I am not the first person with a siezed engine?
 
Roger

Roger

Street Tracker
Does one side of the chain have slack in it?

If you pry gently against the tight side of the chain, can you see the drive gear rotate even a little?

There are two chain guides. One of them, the tensioner was pushing against. The other just guides the chain. Can you get either of them out?

It would seem that one or two of the valves are applying pressure to the cam lobes and I don't think there will be that much force holding the chain tight. If you can get the chain to let loose of the gear, you should be able to turn the cam drive to set your cam shafts to the proper position for removal.

I hope this stuff is making sense.
 
Roger

Roger

Street Tracker
With the crank not moving, you will be limited in how far the cam drive will rotate. If it looks like you will damage more items trying to get the chain out, take a dremel to the chain and cut it. At this point, I don't think the cost of a new chain will matter.

Edit: Those two cam lobes pointing down, once they start to move off the buckets, the camshafts could start to rotate with a very fast motion. This is why earlier I suggested trying to get the cam drive to rotate to the tight side of the chain.
 
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normandy

Street Tracker
I noticed in your pic that the spark plugs are still in.

Removing the plugs will remove the compression and possibly allow you to turn the crank?
 
Roger

Roger

Street Tracker
Hedge said:
I'm kinda screwed. I have to believe that I am not the first person with a siezed engine?
Click to expand...

Naaah! You are never screwed as long as you have some options. You want screwed? A customer brought his boat to me on a Friday evening. He needed to get to the cottage on the other side of the lake with it. No roads there. His outboard was seized. It was a 6 cylinder Mercury "Tower of Power" - Google that one in IMAGES.

And we didn't have any boat rentals left either. We could get parts next day and I could have had it ready for him for the next weekend. He left it with us and went home.
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
Roger said:
With the crank not moving, you will be limited in how far the cam drive will rotate. If it looks like you will damage more items trying to get the chain out, take a dremel to the chain and cut it. At this point, I don't think the cost of a new chain will matter.

Edit: Those two cam lobes pointing down, once they start to move off the buckets, the camshafts could start to rotate with a very fast motion. This is why earlier I suggested trying to get the cam drive to rotate to the tight side of the chain.
Click to expand...

Yes the lobes are almost pointing down as seen in this pic -


 
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