DIY strip and clear your tank....Advice?

[Bullitt]

I finally got a spare tank to play with (delivers today) and plan to strip it bare and clear coat it. Not sure if I want to leave intentional swirl marks or if it would look better as smooth and even as possible.

Never having done this before can anyone offer some tips, pointers, and advice before I get going? Hand sanding vs. electric sanders (pros/cons)? What products work best, what should I avoid, etc.

Thanks!

 

[Speed3Chris]

Bullitt,
If you are going to strip it bare and clear it, do not use sandpaper on it to remove the factory finish. Much easier and will leave a much smoother metal finish if you use chemical stripper. Any automotive paint stripper will work well sold in autoparts stores.
Once stripped you want to polish the bare metal to prepare for clear coat. Prior to clearing it you want to use a paint prep to purge all contaminants.
Hope that helps.

 

[thearcticsea]

Speed3, maybe explain the polishing process? I'm not totally knowledgeable about what types of compounds to use and all that, so maybe Bullitt isn't either.

The stripper is a good idea though.

And for the paint prep before clearcoating, you just want to use an alcohol cleaner right?

This would probably look awesome, by the way.

I'm imagining how cool it would be to polish the metal and then paint only a portion of it. Know what I mean? Like, do stripes or scallops or something but make the stripes or scallops metal. Wow! I can see it now and I kind of want to buy another set of tins! : )

 

[Speed3Chris]

Hi Arctic,
It would look cool. Lots of options. Depends on the look Bullitt is after...including choice of clearcoat...matte versus high gloss. Polishing can be taken to varying degrees as you know. Finer the media and more time with the polisher, the higher the sheen.
The thing about doing what Bullitt wants is under the factory paint is somewhat of a lottery. The bare metal can be perfect or have issues which cannot be taken out by polishing. Production tanks sometimes have filler at the seams and dark spots etc. So Bullitt if he wants to go in this direction will have to roll the dice and strip it to see what he has underneath to see if clearing the bare metal will achieve the look he is after.
If you think about, this isn't too far of a leap because if he strips it and the metal isn't pristine underneath, he can simply repaint it and hopefully it will turn out as nice as what you recently did.
Alcohol will work. A paint prep has a light etching ingredient which helps with the paint bonding. Discussion with the local paint shop will provide the best prep solution.
Cheers.
PS: Stripping is best if going with Bullitt's intent of clearing bare metal...but....most times if repainting, simple and best approach is to leave the factory paint and wet sand it which will provide a great substrate for the new paint.

 

[Bullitt]

Yeah, good call on the stripper in stead of sanding.

And articsea - those are all good points. I have no clue what to use to polish the tank, or what to use to prep before clear coating. Do I use a rattle can clear coat? Take it somewhere to have it done proper? I live by the coast and don't want rust showing up in a few months....

I dig the idea of partial paint on a chromed tank. You picturing something like this? Not exactly what I'm going for but I still dig it.

I have some cool ideas up my sleeve and will keep you all posted on the progress.

Thanks for the feedback so far.

 

[thearcticsea]

Yeah you get my idea, but more of a brushed finish instead of chrome would be my ideal scheme. Have you seen the Ducati that does this?

Here's a picture.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/40268056@N04/4094248200/sizes/o/

I think that would look great in a stripe or some other design configuration.

Of course, I was really considering trying it, but how would you get a metal seat cowl and fly screen?

As far as what to use, I would probably not use rattle can clear coat. I'd ask a painter to do it, or try learning yourself. I just painted myself for the first time. I did all the prep work, sanding, glazing, etc. and sprayed it all myself. It came out really good! So it's definitely not terribly difficult if you take your time and follow the right procedures.

I'm not really sure on the process for polishing metal. Can you get metal to a brushed finish by just not polishing it to far? I'm not sure...

I love this thread. It's got me thinking!

 

[Speed3Chris]

The coolest bonnie I have ever seen is the following bike...lots of aluminum and major $$$. Something about bare metal He has posted the build sheet at one point and believe he has 2X's the cost of a new bonnie into it.
Fine art is expensive.

 

[thearcticsea]

Do you know if he got the alloy tank and cowl and fender from "The Tank Shop" in Scotland?

I just checked out their site when I was looking into metal seat cowls. Looks like that place makes cowls and thruxton fairings, which would be perfect as long as he can make them brushed and not polished.

 

[Speed3Chris]

That maybe the place Arctic. You could send them that picture and see what they say.
I don't recall the owner's name or user.
Keep in mind, pretty easy to make unfinished polished Aluminum into brushed if that is the finish you are after...reverse of
polishing brushed Aluminum engine covers only a lot easier to go from polished to brushed.

 

[Speed3Chris]

Another option if going for the Aluminum metal look is to create this effect with paint.
This however takes serious talent. I am generally not a fan of theme motorcycles but I absolutely love the look of this P-51 inspired Victory Hammer:

 

[sweatmachine]

it will rust under the clearcoat eventually, even if you do clear powdercoat.

My advice would be to have it powdercoated "chrome" which looks about like polished aluminum and will not rust.

Good luck whichever way you go.

 

[Bullitt]

Another option if going for the Aluminum metal look is to create this effect with paint.
This however takes serious talent. I am generally not a fan of theme motorcycles but I absolutely love the look of this P-51 inspired Victory Hammer:

Very cool effect indeed. Like an old bomber..... Maybe add the eyes and teeth too?

 

[Speed3Chris]

it will rust under the clearcoat eventually, even if you do clear powdercoat.

My advice would be to have it powdercoated "chrome" which looks about like polished aluminum and will not rust.

Good luck whichever way you go.

A very good point to consider Bullit.
May want to do powercoat chrome if sticking with the steel tank.

 

[Speed3Chris]

Very cool effect indeed. Like an old bomber..... Maybe add the eyes and teeth too?

I prefer the hot girl on the tank.

 

[rodburner]

I finally got a spare tank to play with (delivers today) and plan to strip it bare and clear coat it. Not sure if I want to leave intentional swirl marks or if it would look better as smooth and even as possible.

Never having done this before can anyone offer some tips, pointers, and advice before I get going? Hand sanding vs. electric sanders (pros/cons)? What products work best, what should I avoid, etc.

Thanks!

I like the swirls..

and I haven't found a local store with paint stripper strong enough to touch the gray primer under the paint..

 

[Speed3Chris]

That's interesting Rod. Didn't know the primer they use on these tanks was that tough.
Did you leave the tank like the above and shoot it with clear?
Did you weld that filler neck to a stock tank or is that a different tank?

 

[rodburner]

Yes,the tank still looks like that.I just used Duplicolor rattlecan clear top coat. No noticeable rust yet and yes,I did add the filler neck to this modded stock tank. I had some other color [bedliner] on it before as an accent also.

 

[Speed3Chris]

Yes,the tank still looks like that.I just used Duplicolor rattlecan clear top coat. No noticeable rust yet

A good tip for Bullit then..it can be done with some success. If Bullit doesn't want swirl marks, I have to believe the factory primer can be removed with the right stripper albeit it will likely be the toxic stuff.
Cheers.

 

[Bullitt]

Thanks Rodburner for the pic, I do like the swirls but am not sure that's perfect for me. Adding that black accent color looks great too. Something to think about......

I am also afraid that a chrome powdercoating that Sweat suggested might look too proper for me, that is, unless you can do more of a matted down chrome (?)

I went to British Customs and saw a Bonnie they had stripped that had major swirls - 3-4x the size of Rodburner's, which also looked cool. I might give it a go with a chemical stripper first and if I don't achieve a look I like, I can play with sanding.

 

[b717doc]

Decided to re-do the tank on my '72 bonneville Sunday morning. Removed tank (1/2 tank still inside), started sanding with 320 grit, then 400 grit, about an hour or so sanding. Then taped over sides where previous paint was, then off to the auto parts store to pick up a can of "color match" automotive metaflake. Sprayed over existing coat of the same, allowed 20 minutes to dry, then taped over that, and applied a chrome color indoor/outdoor acrylic enamel to second color on sides of tank. allowed another 20 minutes then coated with "crystal clear" aerosol enamel I found in my cabinet. On a scale of one to ten, it turned out a solid "8"...was very happy with results....Total cost...$7.29! Not professional by any means, but looks absolutely perfect for me...