valve shim issues

[ttbonnie]

Hello laddies and gents-
I just finished my valve job- 12K milie service- put everything back together checked clearances, checked timing marks-
(side note: bike has sat apart for several weeks/ 2007 bonneville black//
additionaly i took both cams off at same time)
put bike back together attempted to start- engine sounded as though it was straining e.g. a drill with a paddle bit on it sort of wine.
bike did not start. didnt push it to long because of time of day.

Question:
1) is that sound normal after shim job? "tight wining sound"?

2) could timing be off even with timing marks set ? - on ex, • on in

additional- used a 1/4 husky torque wrench to specified nm settings- the torque wrench didnt give the distinct break sound that a 1/2 torque wrench gives- but removed and rechecked-

first time doing valve job, so the noise and not starting up right away got me nervous - bikes apart again to recheck

thank you

 

[ttbonnie]

almost forgot: i just removed plugs and rotated tire to rotate enging

additionally the camshaft timing gear is at TOP position (word top on top) and timing marks are in place- i had to rotate engine with cams out- but all items are alligned as stated

 

[Texas94fs]

You'll have a little more noise at startup until oil gets back to the top of the motor, if they were 180 out, you'd have caused a lot more damage. . . .don't ask me how I know.

 

[ttbonnie]

Here are the timing marks set- there is no letter on my altenator - this is correct, yes?

 

[ttbonnie]

Picture 2

 

[Texas94fs]

There isn't a letter on the alternator. There is a line on the crank/alternator that you match up with the line where the cases come together.

 

[ttbonnie]

And the altenator- not the best pic but the only line I could find is lined up with the seam of the case

 

[Texas94fs]

If they all match up at the same time you should be fine. You should, however, rotate the motor a few times and recheck your valve clearance. if they are loose they will clack more. Also if you removed the backlash gears and didn't put them back in, it will make more noise.

 

[KingBear]

I was just reading up on valve shims and watching the YouTube videos. I've been remiss, have never checked them in 20,000 miles.

 

[ttbonnie]

At 12.5k I was at 34 on 2 ex and 22 on 3 intakes - it's actually an easy job - watch the hinkley bonneville shim video several times - make sure you have all the tools and remove cams when timing marks are met at TDC - the biggest hang up was lack of confidence - I removed and reset cams and triple checked torque settings - just picked up gaskets and will install tomorrow

 

[Texas94fs]

I've done this job many times. Botched it once. Still haven't needed a new cam cover gasket. said i'd do one when it started leaking. round 35 thousand miles and no leaks yet.

 

[ttbonnie]

update - it had to have been off timing- starts and runs, after stripping 3 out of 4 cam cover screws- reason being new grommet washers- all i can say is Thank god for M6 heli-coils will take it out tomorrow.
what an A$$ SCR3W..

has any one just left their old grommits in? i have had the cam cover on and off several times and never changed them- was recomended to me to do so and i underestimated them and stripped the threads out of the alluminum cam shaft holders- (the 10nm seems light- i am immagining that they will tighten as time goes on..

I would recomend doing the job- its easy, but just take your time. if any one has questions- ill be happy to tell you what not to do lol
cheers

 

[ttbonnie]

I've done this job many times. Botched it once. Still haven't needed a new cam cover gasket. said i'd do one when it started leaking. round 35 thousand miles and no leaks yet.

I honestly dont know why i got a new one- they are durable

 

[Texas94fs]

update - it had to have been off timing- starts and runs, after stripping 3 out of 4 cam cover screws- reason being new grommet washers- all i can say is Thank god for M6 heli-coils will take it out tomorrow.
what an A$$ SCR3W..

has any one just left their old grommits in? i have had the cam cover on and off several times and never changed them- was recomended to me to do so and i underestimated them and stripped the threads out of the alluminum cam shaft holders- (the 10nm seems light- i am immagining that they will tighten as time goes on..

I would recomend doing the job- its easy, but just take your time. if any one has questions- ill be happy to tell you what not to do lol
cheers

Make sure you use the cam holders in the same position every time. Also, be very very careful with them. They are not replaceable.

What I mean by that is, you can not buy them. They are matched to that cylinder head. So, in short, you'd have to replace the entire cylinder head.

the 10nm may not seem tight but it should suffice. I always reuse the same rubber grommets that hold the cam cover down. Again, my philosophy on the cam cover (because you don't have to completely dump the oil to take it off) is when it leaks, then address it.

 

[ttbonnie]

thnx

 

[Texas94fs]

thnx

No need to thank me bud, I just hope it helps. I one had to fabricate a jig to hold the cam cap just so i could drill out a broken bolt, and that hole to helicoil and fix it. 4 hours of work and welding, cutting, and grinding. Just to drill out one hole.

:loser:

 

[KingBear]

Eight years ago while installing a new cam cover I snapped off the head of one of my cam cover bolts. Surprisingly enough I was able to spin the bolt shank right out of the top of the cam holder using the tip of a little screwdriver, without having to drill at all, and then successfully torqued down the new bolt to the prescribed specification. It has held perfectly ever since.

 

[ttbonnie]

its ironic but true with all things- the most important pieces are often the most fragile..
I see an upgrade involving a steel replacement capin the future