found a Bonnie arm on ebay
cut off the adjuster area about 3" in front of the weld.this is the "stretch" and is the only straight section on the arm
inside of the arm is approx 1x1-3/4". nobody makes rectangular mild steel box in this size,so I just cut some 1x3 and ground it to fit snug.this is your "slug" about 6" long. BTW,EVERYBODY I consulted about this said the slugs need to be as long as possible,2" minimum,some wacky formula etc,etc and I did just that.The funny thing I found is the factory Triumph "slug" ,which is part of the adjuster forging [or casting,I don`t know] is all of 1/2" long ,if that. You cut off that weld bead,you shave the factory slug.hmmm
the stretch is now free of the old arm,drill some good sized holes in 2,3 or 4 places,tap in your slug and plug or rosette weld the holes to lock the slug inside. if I ground the slug straight,it WILL be square and true when tapped into the adjuster
next,support the bike , remove the wheel,caliper ,shocks,etc and cut off the bikes arm a little north of the weld so you dont cut the solid factory slug inside. this yields a max stretch of 3-1/4".cutting more in front of the weld will give you less stretch,2" say,but also shortens your slug.probably not a problem,IMO. drill a few more plug holes,tap in the slug,plug weld the holes
and then use your favorite welder [I gas welded mine,migged the plug holes] and stick the assembly together. here it is,ready to weld and can`t be anything but straight and square with the slug knocked in 3" on each side.
it can be uneven length though if your grinding goes wonky.:chair: mine is a 1/8" longer on the brake side,so the adjuster notches are + and - one bump on the adjusters.
I took the brake line off at the reservoir and re-routed it from under the arm pivot.plenty of room now. There you go. A longer chain,about 10 links,and your choice of shocks to vary the ride height and your good to go.So Far.
cut off the adjuster area about 3" in front of the weld.this is the "stretch" and is the only straight section on the arm
inside of the arm is approx 1x1-3/4". nobody makes rectangular mild steel box in this size,so I just cut some 1x3 and ground it to fit snug.this is your "slug" about 6" long. BTW,EVERYBODY I consulted about this said the slugs need to be as long as possible,2" minimum,some wacky formula etc,etc and I did just that.The funny thing I found is the factory Triumph "slug" ,which is part of the adjuster forging [or casting,I don`t know] is all of 1/2" long ,if that. You cut off that weld bead,you shave the factory slug.hmmm
the stretch is now free of the old arm,drill some good sized holes in 2,3 or 4 places,tap in your slug and plug or rosette weld the holes to lock the slug inside. if I ground the slug straight,it WILL be square and true when tapped into the adjuster
next,support the bike , remove the wheel,caliper ,shocks,etc and cut off the bikes arm a little north of the weld so you dont cut the solid factory slug inside. this yields a max stretch of 3-1/4".cutting more in front of the weld will give you less stretch,2" say,but also shortens your slug.probably not a problem,IMO. drill a few more plug holes,tap in the slug,plug weld the holes
and then use your favorite welder [I gas welded mine,migged the plug holes] and stick the assembly together. here it is,ready to weld and can`t be anything but straight and square with the slug knocked in 3" on each side.
it can be uneven length though if your grinding goes wonky.:chair: mine is a 1/8" longer on the brake side,so the adjuster notches are + and - one bump on the adjusters.
I took the brake line off at the reservoir and re-routed it from under the arm pivot.plenty of room now. There you go. A longer chain,about 10 links,and your choice of shocks to vary the ride height and your good to go.So Far.
