Sag
- Thread starter Jhtjon
- Start date
But seriously, I assume you mean shock/fork springs, but how do you measure it?
You want between 1.25"-1.75" in the rear
front should be 32mm-38mm
If you are on the firm side in the rear then you should be on the firm side in front.
front and back work together and should be though of as a system instead as individual parts.
Both Udizit and myself, a well as others, have several in-depth post on this subject (sigh)"at the other place" (sigh).
front should be 32mm-38mm
If you are on the firm side in the rear then you should be on the firm side in front.
front and back work together and should be though of as a system instead as individual parts.
Both Udizit and myself, a well as others, have several in-depth post on this subject (sigh)"at the other place" (sigh).
DavidC
Rocker
I weigh about the same. It at the second softest from the factory and I rode like that. Moved it to the third as an experiment for a while. Rough as hell. Went back to the second - much smoother.
Not much to do with the front but increase the preload maybe?
Perhaps next year a purchase of better suspension.
cynr1023
TT Racer
Or if you wanted the best of both worlds you could use a set of Thruxton adjustable preload caps.
when you want to get all sportive about it then crank 'em down and do the same for the rear. Takes less than a minute to do front and back.
I got around your problem by using 2 single rates with a cross over. It's a compromise setup but it works well unless you press it to the point of gross stupidity.
Jhtjon
Street Tracker
Problem has been found but not resolved. Traxxion Dynamics does not have accurate specifications on Bonnevilles only Thruxtons. The precut spacers included with my springs were to short by 30mm, hence the 60mm of front sag. Here is the spacer instructions provided on their web site.
With the fork hanging in a vise, insert one of the new springs and the washers that go above and below the spacer (some forks only require one) into the fork. Measure from the top of the washers to the top of the fork tube, and record this number. Measure from the bottom of the fork cap to the bottom edge of the top lip of the fork cap (this is the lip that will touch the fork tube when the cap is seated), and subtract this number from the first measurement. This represents "zero preload". For non-externally pre-load adjustable forks, add 20mm to your zero preload number. For adjustable forks, add 15mm. Using a tubing cutter, make your spacer this length. Deburr the ends of the spacer, and make sure that it is flat and square on both ends.
:chin:
With the fork hanging in a vise, insert one of the new springs and the washers that go above and below the spacer (some forks only require one) into the fork. Measure from the top of the washers to the top of the fork tube, and record this number. Measure from the bottom of the fork cap to the bottom edge of the top lip of the fork cap (this is the lip that will touch the fork tube when the cap is seated), and subtract this number from the first measurement. This represents "zero preload". For non-externally pre-load adjustable forks, add 20mm to your zero preload number. For adjustable forks, add 15mm. Using a tubing cutter, make your spacer this length. Deburr the ends of the spacer, and make sure that it is flat and square on both ends.
:chin: