Rox Risers on a Scrambler!

JimVonBaden

JimVonBaden

Street Tracker
Since the ROX Risers worked so well on my R1200GS I thought I would give them a shot on my Triumph Scrambler.

As usual the delivery was fast, and the quality top notch!

parts.jpg

So, I spread out the parts on my tank bag and went to work.

I proceded to remove the bolts holding the 7/8" bars.
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remove-1.jpg





Then I loosely installed all the parts.

In doing so, I proved the old adage that it is better to drink AFTER you start such a project, and while positioning the bars I dented the tank. TOTALLY avoidable, but worth showing so others do not do the same.

rear-view-dent.jpg



It took a bit of adjusting to get the bolts all lined up, and I wasn't sure that I wouldn't need to reroute the cables, but in the end it worked with no rerouting at all.
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I did need to remove the flyscreen to give enough clearance to tighten down the risers, but not a lot of work. Tighten the top bolts to spec first, then the bottom ones as well.


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Once all the bolts were near tight, I adjusted the bars to taste, for now, and then torque everything and bolt everything back together and ride.

Tomorrow I will ride it and see how it went, as I do not drink and ride! Still, they look great, and clearance does not appear to be an issue.


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Jim :cool:
 
JimVonBaden

JimVonBaden

Street Tracker
On the other hand, when I rode the bike to work this morning I proved the old adage that you should not drink and work on your bike, or do it late at night when you are tired. The handlebars were not as tight as I thought they were, and were moving all over the place. Turns out there is a little ridge I didn't see on the Rox caps that prevented them from fully clamping down. Not only that, but the bars turned full right caused the RPMs to go up to about 3K, and the clutch to disengage, the cables were too tight.
Rox-cap-gap.jpg

The gap from the ridge.

Rox-Cap-Ridge-3.jpg

The ridge that fit over the edge of the Rox Risers, but I put the cap on the Triumph base, which caused my issue.

Rox-Cap-lip.jpg

The reason for the ridge.

Rox-cap-grind.jpg

So I ground off the ridges.

Rox-Cap-Ground-2.jpg


Rox-Cap-Sand.jpg

Smoothed off the grinding and cleaned up the edges.

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So, to fix the throttle cable issue I took apart the grip and took the cables out and rerouted them to the other side of the tripple tree.

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Rerouted. No issues that I could see with this routing.


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I pulled the clutch cable loose and rerouted it similarly!

Bolted it all back together, then addedbacking plates to my number plates so I could install saddle bags. Then I took ot for a ride to be sure it was OK.

All better!

Jim :cool:
 
ivar

ivar

TT Racer
Yeah I was wonderin' why you'd swap the top parts of the clamps around. For looks?

BTW, are those 2" or 3.5"? Looks identical to the Rox risers I put on my snowmobile. That Rox stuff is top notch.
 
JimVonBaden

JimVonBaden

Street Tracker
ivar said:
Yeah I was wonderin' why you'd swap the top parts of the clamps around. For looks?

BTW, are those 2" or 3.5"? Looks identical to the Rox risers I put on my snowmobile. That Rox stuff is top notch.
Click to expand...

No choice, the instruments are attached to the upper clamp so I had to swap them. Besides I like the instruments up higher, it makes them more easily seen as they are in my perifreal vision.

These are the 2" ROX, and they are the same for nearly all 7/8" bar bikes. I have the 1 1/8" set on my GS.

Jim :cool:
 
JimVonBaden

JimVonBaden

Street Tracker
ivar said:
ah, didn't reailze the gauges were mounted to top clamps...
Click to expand...


It was pointed out to me that it is possible to swap them over and mount them low, but it looks funny to me to have the ROX caps on top, and the bars block the view because of the goofy tach placement when pulled back. On top of that you can actually see the guages with them on the top clamp.

Jim :cool:
 
PieMan

PieMan

Two Stroke
Man, that is one complex setup. I found it easier and cheaper to have a couple of spacers made up, 25mm OD, 10.1mm ID and 30mm high with a couple of longer bolts. The spacers fit between the clamp and the yoke. Works well and all for £15.:)
 
ivar

ivar

TT Racer
Yeah , the longer bolt+spacers work good too and is a cheap and simple solution.
However, the articulating riser JVB uses also allows adjustment of the bars forward/aft if needed.
Rox website: http://www.roxspeedfx.com/
 
JimVonBaden

JimVonBaden

Street Tracker
ivar said:
Yeah , the longer bolt+spacers work good too and is a cheap and simple solution.
However, the articulating riser JVB uses also allows adjustment of the bars forward/aft if needed.
Rox website: http://www.roxspeedfx.com/
Click to expand...

Exactly. It gives me a lot of flexability on how I position my bars. As for complex, not at all, just simple risers that are easy to install.

A couple of pics from different angles:

P9021169.jpg


rackandtopcase.jpg


In-place-2.jpg


Jim :cool:
 
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