low battery issues?

[Social D 13]

Hey guys
04 thrux- emgo reverse pipes, 42 pilots, 110 mains, uni filter w box and snorkle in tack- mixture screw @ 2 turns seems to get worse as I turn it to 3 turns.
At low rps my bike hesitates off the line but flys @ higher rpms w no issues- 6500 miles.
Cleaned out the carbs, checked for leaks and I think I'm good there.
I do notice in the garage @ idle that my headlight will get brighter w revs- can a weak battery be my issue causing the bike to hesitate and not fire right and as I gofaster, the charging system kicks in?
Any other ideas are appreciated. Tried the mixture screws @ 3 turns but it seems to run poory.
It always seems like its either not firing or I'm not getting gas- hard to tell.
A month ago, it was running fine w 40 pilots- bumped the pilots for better low end grunt....
CRaP!!!!!
Thanks

 

[freeze]

Easy check on the battery, check voltage unloaded(should be 12-13) check loaded(shouldn't drop below 11.5).
But since you just played with the carbs, i would think your'e off on the pilot or mixture screws, not giving you enuff gas off idle to midrange.

 

[BlueJ]

The brighness surge is normal - battery is fine.

You're too rich at the low end with the fatter pilot - that's why turning out is making it worse. Have you tried turning IN those screws? You could also do a little experiment and leave the screws as they are, and remove the snorkle (5 minutes) and give that a shot. If it gives even a tiny improvement, it's because you're now adding more air to go with that more gas, so you can get your more grunt.

 

[Motley]

You might try reducing the pilot jet and maybe increasing the main jet sizes just a little. That 42 pilot seems like it may be too rich. Do you have shims under the needles?

 

[fender]

BlueJ is correct, there is no need to change out the pilots, just turn them back in in 1/2 turn increments and fine tune them when closer. You'll most likely be in a 3/4 to full turn less than were you were with the 40's and no other changes.

 

[Social D 13]

Thanks guys
Well
A) glad to know that my light being affected by my rev is normal
B) doesn't the pilot jet affect my low rpms and then as I go faster, my Mains kick in? Which made me think that it was my pilots that had problems and not my mains.
As mentioned, as I pull of the light, the bike seems to hesitate on some levek.
Oddly, it never did that until I rode her in very cold weather one day...
Now @ idle, needle jumps around a bit.

 

[BlueJ]

Needle jumps around because you're idling rough - too rich. Get leaner on the screws, that will smooth that out a bit and give you the snap you want. You might well want to put a shim on the needles after that - the pilots are only for about the first 1/8 throttle or so.

And you're correct, you don't need bigger mains. Unless you start getting stuff out of the way of the intake air.

And, just for completeness sake - those Emgos are just for show and sound until you start working on the intake end to get enough air in to allow you to run a bigger main. I was able to go all the way to 128 mains just by pulling the restrictor plate and snorkle. Ran that way for a long time until I tried a short little run with no air filter or filter hole cover at all and that was a major difference... meaning my 128s were probably too rich, 125s would have done. But then I saw the light, got the NARK (in hindsight, probably could have done the airbox chop - at the time I thought I was keeping my stock airbox), now running 45 pilots 140 mains with my TORs, about 1.5 turns out on the screws. And she's running GGGGGGREAT!!!!

 

[Social D 13]

Ok guys
Thanks
I'm messin w the mixture screws and it seems to be getting worse.
So any instructions on remvoing the snorkle and seeing if more air helps out?

 

[BlueJ]

"messin with" is a recipe for disaster.

The problem really is that your pilots are too big for your air intake system. Removing the snorkle only is easy, but will not get you enough extra air to make it worth while. Go back to the 40 pilots. Screw each mixture screw all the way in. Then back each one out 3 turns. Ride. If feeling like you still have issues, turn each screw in 1/2 turn. Ride again. Repeat until either better or clearly getting worse with each inward adjustment. If you get a lot of popping on decel you want to turn the screws out.

You do presumably have the "D tool" for turning the mixture screws?

You also need to take into account, in their stock configuration, these Bonnies are fun to ride but are heavy and relatively slow - so if you've ridden something more high-spirited and are looking for wheel-popping starts, you either need to do a LOT of intake/motor work, or get a different bike. I should have thought about this at the onset of your question - that perhaps it's not your bike that's poorly tuned, but your expectations....

To answer your question: Remove the left side cover. You'll see a sort of intake vent looking black rubber thing that looks like it leads into the airbox. Grip it firmly and wiggle and pull on it until it pops out. Congratulations, it's a bouncing baby snorkle! Re-attach side cover.

 

[Social D 13]

Thanks guys
Here are my goals-
I simply want that hesitation aroun 1300-1400. Rpms to go away.
Can't tell you how much it sucks at a red light and not knowing If my bike will be able to get off the line, stall or hesitate like it has been.
It sucks to hit turns and hit the throttle and feel like there isn't enough gas.
I keep thinking its an airleak or a blockage or some type but I've gone through just about checkin everything already.
I came from riding a yamaha v star 650 classic, so trust me, my thruxy is fast, but getting outta 1st gear sucks the big one.
On another note- I was carb synching the bike and noticed that my levels were good but I'd hear something click or thump in the carbs and all of a sudden one side would be taller than the other but it would even out and the entire process happens again.
I was messin wthe slides and noticed when I pushed them up hard, resistance, resistance, a sip of no resistance and then resistance- but when I did it slower it was ok......
I'll go back to 40 pilots and either 120 or 130 mains and take it from there.
Thanks

 

[BlueJ]

With a stock airbox, going up in the mains is only going to move your "problem" from the low revs to the high ones. I'd suggest going back to the 40 pilot, leaving the main at 118 (*maybe* 120), and add one shim to the needles - that shim will help you out right in that sweet spot.

You might also contemplate drilling the carb slide holes slightly bigger - that can give you considerably more snap off of idle.

PLEASE review the Jenks Tuning Guide before you go any farther!

 

[Social D 13]

I wanted to give an update.
rode the bike about 120 miles and noticed a little bit of gas coming out of the rubbers between the carbs and the engine.
If gas can come out- maybe air can get in?
I tried the wd40 test and saw no change.
Also, just for reference- how are your rubbers sealed to the carbs? I noticed that on one side of the carbs, there's like a mental lip- I assume that the rubber isn't supposed to go over that and just seat next to it. I don't remember if the other side also has a lip- I do know that one side does have 4 "stopping" points a little further away.
I just wanted to check how you guys seal that rubber piece against the carbs and engine so rule out an airleak ofsome type.
Thanks

 

[BlueJ]

11th time's a charm.

Rubbers on both sides of carb will be seated well onto the carb body, so that when you tighten the hose clamp it's tightening the rubber against that body. Ditto for the rubber against the exhaust manifold. Sounds like you found that leak that was postulated early as the source of your problem, yay! Just pop the rubbers off and then seat them back on, at all 6 places (3 on each side).