1 month old battery. I do mostly city riding- short trips. Does the charging system only kick in over certain RPM's? I know that BMW's function that way. I haven't busted out my multimeter to look at the problem. Notice that this problem is prevalent especially on cold mornings. HELP!
dead battery- charging problems?
- Thread starter Craigore
- Start date
Baltobonneville
750cc
You answered your own question. You need a Battery Tender.
Bonafide
NBR founder
I wouldnt think so. I would suggest you test the charging system of the bike; the rectifier, stator, and your brand new battery (it's possible it's bad and why'd you replace it?). Something isnt working correctly - but it's not the need for a battery tender if you ride often enough as the stator sends a charge straight off idle.
Bigted
Two Stroke
I understand that the dealers often deliver the bike with very low idle rpms, ie: 950 rpm was how mine was delivered which is way too low as far as i'm concerned.....i don't think your battery gets charged on anything lower than a 1000 or 1100 rpm...is your idle rpm low?
Low rpm idle also gives a much snatchier throttle...mine is now 1100 and feels much better.
Low rpm idle also gives a much snatchier throttle...mine is now 1100 and feels much better.
jays06scrambler
Scooter
The only time I use the tender is in winter months,when the bike isn't being ridden.This time of the year I don't use it and I have started up on 40 deg mornings with no problem other than a rotted squirel condom one morning causing the bike to be tempermental.Check connections,if have a multi tester,( if not you can get one cheap enough), check voltage at the battery,then fire the bike up and see what you at the battery running,if it starts to dip down,rev the bike a little see if the voltage increases.This will help you determine if its running off the battery or the charging system is working.
jays06scrambler
Scooter
Craigore,I was a little bored so I ran out to the garage and hooked my handy dandy snap on tester to the battery. Voltage at battery was 12.55,I turned the key on dropped to 12.17,started the bike dropped it down to 10.90. Idle at around 1000 rpm 12.60 I revved the motor slightly it jumped up to 13.44. This will give you a little guide line I hope on what to look for for voltages. You also may have a draw on the battery causing it to discharge,best way to check for that is to unhook the negative cable from the battery,hook the multi tester between the negative battery post and the negative cable,that will tell you if have something shorted causing excessive voltage drain possibly drawing your battery down and causing the hard start. I just getting acclumated to the Hinkley bikes so I don't know the trouble areas to look for in the charging system like I do on the old Meriden bikes,(I still have nightmares about zenner diodes).But there are plenty of guys on here who do know the Hinkley bikes. Good luck with it.
Bigted
Two Stroke
PS. By the way, if your's is an early efi model than your bike won't start when the battery is at 12.5 volts or less even though 12.5 is normally considered to be a charged battery. Triumph has since fix that little snafu and you can geet the updated map from your dealer.
slowgator
750cc
Kirkus: While my T100 was at the dealer for service, I had them install a Powerlet cigarette socket adapter to power my GPS. They installed a connector/plug near the wire harness that runs under the tank that makes it easy to plug in the BT Jr. after a ride. When not in use it tucks under the wiring easily.
I just wad/fold mine up beneath the right hand side cover. No problem with it escaping...
dschief
750cc
+1, exactly where I hide mine.
How old was the original battery?? Why did you replace it?? Did it dye slowly or just drop dead?? If it died slowly them maybe your charging system was starting to go wrong or the bike sits between rides for too long which is not good for batteries, but if it just died suddenly then that is usually normal for a battery. It sounds like your new battery may be a dud if it will charge up on a run and then not holding charge and being sluggish on a cold morning.
Normally if the bike is ridden regularly, short runs, long runs, city runs, what ever the battery should stay charged and if it is not being used much then as mentioned by others a trickle charge will help maintain the battery. I read a lot on this forum of people going through batteries in short periods all the time but both my bikes are still on their original batteries, one is an 05 and the other an 06. The reason for this I say is because both bikes are being used all the time all year round (The batteries are being constantly charged). The lack of use sounds to be the main culprit for dying batteries but if you are using your bike on a regular basis and still having troubles with a flat battery then you definitely have a charging problem but the fact that it charges after a run then dies makes it sound like the battery it self.
phil
Street Tracker
I had the same problem with my battery, Luckily I got a new battery form the dealer under warranty, and I also invested in a battery tender. I plug it in on cool night, and there not to expensive..
RumRunner
Street Tracker
Well BUST out that multimeter!!!
I was having a similar problem with my 04 Thruxton. I had replaced the battery in November of 2011. Well I had an issue two weeks ago where she didn't want to start when I went out to go ride with the boys. I hooked up the charger and she lit off (I had gotten home late the night before and assumed I had left the ign on or something). Rode about 30 minutes, stopped for breakfast. Go to leave the Waffle house and click click click... Get jumped and off to Rider's Hill (Our Rallying point for the days ride). I check the battery there with a multi meter and realize it's no good. So I jump her again and ride home to go swap the battery out for a new one (Under warranty).
I did a full check on the charging system afterwards:
Voltage @ Battery Ignition off: 12.68
Voltage @ Battery Ignition On: 12.47
Voltage @ Battery While Cranking: 11.22
Voltage @ Battery @ Idle: 12.85
Voltage @ Battery @ 1500 RPM: 13.65
Voltage @ Battery @ 2000 RPM: 14.25
Voltage @ Battery over 2000 RPM: Drops back to the high 13's
Voltage out of Stator/Alternator @ 4500 about 60 Volts A/C
I even performed the same checks with my spare Rectifier to make sure it was working properly in case I need to throw it on.
So YES the charging system doesn't charge as well at idle, and doesn't charge as well at High RPM's so depending on how you ride that might add to your issues, but there is NO reason if the charging system is working to have to replace a battery that new. And if you ride your bike at least once every week or so there is no reason to Need a Battery Tender.