Cam Cover Changeover Bonneville SE 09

benjamindickens

Street Tracker
Gday guys I just wanted to ask your opinions regarding changing the stock cam cover for a chrome or sixty 8 colour cam cover. I am new to the bike world and very new to this site. What is involved, and can it be done by yourself or is it a job for the experts. I am in Melbourne Australia and have been quoted 110 Aus for install of the chrome cover. Just for your info if you would prefer a brushed cam cover the cost is 480 Aus as oposed to chrome which is 180 from Peter Stevens. I hope you guys can give me some insite all the best Benwa :mad2::sidecar:
 

sportyone

Street Tracker
I reckon you could do it yourself if your took your time, it's just fiddly 'cose have to remove the seat and tank !
but after that it would be pretty straight forward I think ?

what's wrong with the existing cam covers ?


good luck,

cheers, :headbang2:
 

MattRat

TT Racer
changing cam cover should take about 15 minutes, including seat & tank removal and drinking a beer while admiring your work. The only thing to really worry about is the torque on the cam cover bolts. they stretch and break VERY EASILY - I think torque is 10nm but double- and - triple check that before you start tightening.
 

yellowrubiu

Street Tracker
.... break VERY EASILY - I think torque is 10nm but double- and - triple check that before you start tightening.

Yep, 10 Nm is what I've seen everywhere for pre-09's, not sure if this has changed for 09's. Get a good torque wrench if you don't have one already. It will definitely come in handy for other work on the bike.
 
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KingBear

Hooligan
The toughest part is keeping the rubber gasket in place while fitting the new cover. That alone will get you cussing.
 

RumRunner

Street Tracker
The toughest part is keeping the rubber gasket in place while fitting the new cover. That alone will get you cussing.


Please elaborate,(and are there any simple tricks?) as I'll be changing my timing cover as soon as I find a Left Hand side cover and get them all Powder Coated...
 

Flaco

750cc
Please elaborate,(and are there any simple tricks?) as I'll be changing my timing cover as soon as I find a Left Hand side cover and get them all Powder Coated...
Yup, put a LITTLE grease or RTV Copper to hold the gasket in place, slide (maneuver) it in from right to left w/ the tank off, of course...
 

KingBear

Hooligan
I've heard of people using some silicone to hold it in place as well. The air injection system is a major obstacle to have to maneuver around, so trying to navigate the cover around that while keeping the gasket in place will be frustrating without something to hold it in the little groove.
 

benjamindickens

Street Tracker
Thank you all for your kind reply's your knowledge is greatly appreciated, I should be getting the bike on the 28th of this month fingers crossed and I cant wait..... Ben
 
changing cam cover should take about 15 minutes, including seat & tank removal and drinking a beer while admiring your work. The only thing to really worry about is the torque on the cam cover bolts. they stretch and break VERY EASILY - I think torque is 10nm but double- and - triple check that before you start tightening.

not exactly. The cam cover bolts are steel and do not stretch or break. What happens if you overtorque is you can strip out the cam caps that the cam cover bolts screw into. Then you have to pull 'em and heli-coil them...which is kinda sucky and kinda frightening, but once they're drilled, tapped, and heli-coiled life is good!
 

pepper

Street Tracker
I've used Hylomar to aid gasket installation (hold o-rings, lube seal OD's, etc..) for many years with great success, especially on vintage machines with mating surfaces that were considerably less than perfect. An added benny, since it's a gasket dressing and not a sealer per se, is that you'll never have to scrape another gasket once you start using it as the gaskets will just peel right off later.

Another trick on the old stuff is to prep the mating surfaces by stoning them. Lube the stone with a little bit of brake fluid and then go very lightly in a tight circular pattern. Clean up the surface with a little gas on a rag and you're done. Often times the weep/leak is caused by a scratch which runs from the inside to the outside of the surface. But if you get a really gouged surface, one where some butcher pryed it open with a screwdriver, well, yamabond and and a piece of clear fishing line to fill the divot may be the only help until it can be welded and milled.

Hylomar is sold in most auto parts houses and in a non-shop environment a tube of blue will last quite a long time.

http://www.hylomar-usa.com/

Silicone goop is never a good option to seal anything that oil moves through. As the mating halves are drawn together the silicone will squish out and bead. What you see on the outside is happening on the inside too. The last thing a guy wants is to take a chance on a cured and hardened piece of silicone moving through oil galleys in his motor.
 

MattRat

TT Racer
not exactly. The cam cover bolts are steel and do not stretch or break. What happens if you overtorque is you can strip out the cam caps that the cam cover bolts screw into. Then you have to pull 'em and heli-coil them...which is kinda sucky and kinda frightening, but once they're drilled, tapped, and heli-coiled life is good!

I stand corrected - I saw (at the bonehead dealer) one stretched, one broken, and one stripped...all on the same bike (said dealer is no longer allowed near my bike)
 

RumRunner

Street Tracker
I've used Hylomar to aid gasket installation (hold o-rings, lube seal OD's, etc..) for many years with great success, especially on vintage machines with mating surfaces that were considerably less than perfect. An added benny, since it's a gasket dressing and not a sealer per se, is that you'll never have to scrape another gasket once you start using it as the gaskets will just peel right off later.

Another trick on the old stuff is to prep the mating surfaces by stoning them. Lube the stone with a little bit of brake fluid and then go very lightly in a tight circular pattern. Clean up the surface with a little gas on a rag and you're done. Often times the weep/leak is caused by a scratch which runs from the inside to the outside of the surface. But if you get a really gouged surface, one where some butcher pryed it open with a screwdriver, well, yamabond and and a piece of clear fishing line to fill the divot may be the only help until it can be welded and milled.

Hylomar is sold in most auto parts houses and in a non-shop environment a tube of blue will last quite a long time.

http://www.hylomar-usa.com/

Silicone goop is never a good option to seal anything that oil moves through. As the mating halves are drawn together the silicone will squish out and bead. What you see on the outside is happening on the inside too. The last thing a guy wants is to take a chance on a cured and hardened piece of silicone moving through oil galleys in his motor.

Thanks for the tip on the hylomar I'll get some today to try in some other applications. On some of the racecar stuff I work on we use Gorrilla snot (3m window sealer) to hold the gaskets in place when we still have gaskets.
 

KingBear

Hooligan
I snapped the head off one of my bolts when I was reinstalling my cam cover. I was lucky that the bolt also semi-stripped and I was able to spin it right out of the head with no problem, and then I was able to torque down a new bolt to specifications. Haven't had any problems at all.
 

Stars&Bars

Two Stroke
I like the black one that came on my bonnie, but I do have that oil seepage that others have had and written about. Anyone know off the top of their head what the gasket goes for? I know my 2009 is under warranty but 15 min to fix?? What the hell besides,
I do enjoy a cold Guiness stout, which they don't sell at my dealership!
 

MattRat

TT Racer
I like the black one that came on my bonnie, but I do have that oil seepage that others have had and written about. Anyone know off the top of their head what the gasket goes for? I know my 2009 is under warranty but 15 min to fix?? What the hell besides,
I do enjoy a cold Guiness stout, which they don't sell at my dealership!

You're going to want to replace the rubber washers under the bolts at the same time. gives a better seal.
 
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