bowl gaskets?
- Thread starter msc66
- Start date
mark66
TT Racer
No problems when I rejetted my carbs. My Triumph is an '03 and I was just careful with the gaskets. You shouldn't have any problems. In case you haven't thought of it yet, I'd get a set of those stainless allen cap screws to replace the stock philips heads. Had to drill out one of mine that stripped. Not a big deal but just another pain in the ass you don't need.
localmotion411
Street Tracker
Yeah, get new screws. Those stock ones are bastards.
Baltobonneville
750cc
Bongo, print out this booklet:
http://www.triumph-bonneville.com/images/Carb%20Jetting%20Info%202007.pdf
Here are some addenda from my experience:
1. You don't necessarily go with the jet numbers in the booklet. They seem high, compared to the numbers I've seen posted here and on T-Rat.
2. You don't have to remove the carburetors to change the jets. An inspection mirror is helpful if you work on them in situ. It's a bit awkward, but less trouble than removing and re-installing them.
3. Get replacement stainless Allen head screws for tops and bottoms, and replace them the first time you get into the carburetors. Use slightly longer screws for the two left bottom screws where the bracket attaches, and don't over-tighten any of them.
4. A mini-ratchet (the kind that holds ¼-inch screwdriver bits) and snug-fitting Phillips and hex bits are very helpful.
5. Take the time to find the right screwdriver bits that fit the jets snugly and are exactly the right width. They should have round shanks, not hex.
6. Don't forget to turn off the petcock and drain the float bowls before you start, then remember to close the drain screws when you remove them, or at least before you open the petcock again. Each will drain off about 40-60ml (?) of gasoline, which you can dump back into the tank.
7. You don't have to remove the tank, but doing so will make access to the carburetors' tops easier.
8. If you get into the tops (needles and shims), you can do so without removing the diaphragm, which some have found to be troublesome to re-seat. I use angled long-nose pliers to pull the needle out. If you have a relatively recent model, you already have Thruxton needles and probably won't have to get into the tops, although it's still a good idea to replace the screws.
After you've changed the jets once and figured it out, you'll be able to change the main jets in about 30 minutes, and save yourself £50 and the aggravation of going to the dealer, and be able to do it as often as you wish.
http://www.triumph-bonneville.com/images/Carb%20Jetting%20Info%202007.pdf
Here are some addenda from my experience:
1. You don't necessarily go with the jet numbers in the booklet. They seem high, compared to the numbers I've seen posted here and on T-Rat.
2. You don't have to remove the carburetors to change the jets. An inspection mirror is helpful if you work on them in situ. It's a bit awkward, but less trouble than removing and re-installing them.
3. Get replacement stainless Allen head screws for tops and bottoms, and replace them the first time you get into the carburetors. Use slightly longer screws for the two left bottom screws where the bracket attaches, and don't over-tighten any of them.
4. A mini-ratchet (the kind that holds ¼-inch screwdriver bits) and snug-fitting Phillips and hex bits are very helpful.
5. Take the time to find the right screwdriver bits that fit the jets snugly and are exactly the right width. They should have round shanks, not hex.
6. Don't forget to turn off the petcock and drain the float bowls before you start, then remember to close the drain screws when you remove them, or at least before you open the petcock again. Each will drain off about 40-60ml (?) of gasoline, which you can dump back into the tank.
7. You don't have to remove the tank, but doing so will make access to the carburetors' tops easier.
8. If you get into the tops (needles and shims), you can do so without removing the diaphragm, which some have found to be troublesome to re-seat. I use angled long-nose pliers to pull the needle out. If you have a relatively recent model, you already have Thruxton needles and probably won't have to get into the tops, although it's still a good idea to replace the screws.
After you've changed the jets once and figured it out, you'll be able to change the main jets in about 30 minutes, and save yourself £50 and the aggravation of going to the dealer, and be able to do it as often as you wish.
Last edited:
T-boy
Rocker
In a nutshell:
Concentrate on one side before moving to the other--
1. Drain gas from and remove the float bowl.
2. Using a slot head screwdriver (width of head should match jets) remove pilot and main jet. Use small wrench to hold the needle jet holder while you unscrew the main jet.
3. Screw in new jets.
4. Use new stainless hex bolts to reattach float cover.
5. Repeat for the other side.
6. If necessary, use "D" tool to adjust A/F.
Most can re-jet without removing the carbs. I was one of the unfortunate few that had to remove them.
Balto beat me to a response and is probably more detailed...but pay attention to the bold print #2
Concentrate on one side before moving to the other--
1. Drain gas from and remove the float bowl.
2. Using a slot head screwdriver (width of head should match jets) remove pilot and main jet. Use small wrench to hold the needle jet holder while you unscrew the main jet.
3. Screw in new jets.
4. Use new stainless hex bolts to reattach float cover.
5. Repeat for the other side.
6. If necessary, use "D" tool to adjust A/F.
Most can re-jet without removing the carbs. I was one of the unfortunate few that had to remove them.
Balto beat me to a response and is probably more detailed...but pay attention to the bold print #2
Last edited:
Baltobonneville
750cc
The Jenks book that I linked has good illustrations to guide you. It's a fidgety job, but not difficult if you're careful.