CBR F3 wheel and fork swap (pics and write up)

Texas94fs

Hooligan
This is going to be short and to the point. No step by step, I'm sure most of you are blessed with common sense to be able to do this yourself, if you aren't well it would take common sense to figure that out anyway. If you do have any further questions just shoot me a PM. Sorry I do not own a proper camera and didn't take photos of the entire process.

Parts list:

95-98 CBR 600 F3 Wheels (front and rear)
" " Brake Calipers (Front)
" " rear sprocket (43 tooth) + or - to your liking
" " Brake rotors (front and rear)
" " Front brake master cylinder
" " Front tire (120-60-17)
" " Rear tire (160-60-17)
" " axle and spacers (front)
" " Left and right front fork
" " Front wheel bearings and seals
" " Cush drive bearings
" " Rear axle spacers
06 Thruxton (or your new bonnie model and year) rear wheel bearings
" " Rear axle
bushing to fit over triumph rear axle but inbetween f3 rear wheel cush drive bearing and spacer.

Optional parts list : you may not need them
95-98 CBR 600 F3 front brake pads (EBC HH)
" " fork seals
" " master cylinder rebuild kit
" " Front brake caliper seals and wipers
" " Dual line stainless braided brake lines (spiegler)
Powdercoating
Fork oil
Electronic Bicycle speedo with magnetic pickup
D9 gauge bracket
Brake fluid
Axle Grease
Several 6 packs of your favorite brew
cigarettes
sweat
blood
tears of joy and frustration

Disclaimer : I may have left off some parts that i just can't remember at the moment, don't use this as a complete end all be all how to, its merely a suggestion at where to start.

1. Jack the bike up on frame lift and remove front and rear wheels, front master cylinder and front forks. I also removed all the body work to get an extensive cleaning done to the bike while I was in there.
2. press bearings into F3 cush drive and front and rear wheels (see parts list for what bearings to use)
3. have tires mounted and balanced on cbr wheels. The brake rotor of the rear must be on the left side for the correct direction of travel for the tire. I also installed the front tire on the rim in the same way so the spoke pattern of the wheel matched.
4. Double check cbr brake systems and make sure they function properly. I junked the old lines and really got em apart and cleaned em up. Also I preferred to.
5. Check cbr front forks for any leaks and replace seals as necessary then install.
6. Install front wheel that is complete with bearings, tires and brake rotors.
7. Install rear complete wheel (tires, bearings, cush drive, rotor, sprocket, and the bushing you got made (i used digital calipers to measure the inside of the F3 cush drive bearing and the outside of my triumph axle to get the bushing machined correctly.) The easiest way to get the wheel and all on one manned seemed to be to first lift it up in the wheel well completely, loop the chain on, then proceed to align the caliper bracket with the notch on the axle and the rotor on the wheel. Then sliding the axle through.
8. Install front calipers, master cylinder and brake lines.
9. Bleed brakes (GET A VAC PUMP)
10. reinstall other bodywork.
11. Double check all tightnesses of bolts, air pressures, brakes, and fluid levels.
12. Go be a hooligan.

I obviously did some things and went the extra mile in areas for better pats or replacing things. Powdercoating isn't necessary if you find pretty parts, just as replacing the front brake lines isn't necessary. Its your own project when you do it so take a general idea of where the wear and tear of things are and replace them if they will need it soon, much less of a headache to do at this point, and as with all new parts it helps to really get in there dismantle and clean them to become familiar.

I must thank ; Seth (D9 brackets) for his help on the bushing and for the kick ass most bitching tach bracket ever, Andy at STX Cycle Accessories in Houston, Texas for the awesome tire prices and for installing my bearings for free, Bottle Fed for answering my questions about the bushing for the rear axle, my friends that loaned the vac pump and helped with the brakes and dissasembly, my buddy for taking the following shots with his camera, British USA in South Houston for getting my bearings and giving me free shipping, SportBikeTrackGear.com for hooking me up with the brake lines, and Tim Kyle at texaspowdercoating.com.
 
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Texas94fs

Hooligan
Powdercoated parts :
Satin Black - Healight shell and bezel, headlight brackets, and heel guard
Gunmetal grey - Wheels
f3p1.jpg


f3p2.jpg


f3p3.jpg
 

MES

750cc
Oh fuck me.
That shit is the berries. Good on ya.
It really does look good. Nothing flashy but all bizness and well tied together.
Loosing all that unsprung weight with real rubber, that thing is going to spin up sooo nice.
and you thought track days were fun before. :)
 

Speed3Chris

I like Dick
Love the part and color mix.
Couple of questions please:
Are the forks the same length as stock Thrux? Is the resulting ride height front and rear different with the shorter wheels and tires?
Lastly, how does the bike handle and feel compared to stock?
 
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Pete R

Banned
Lovely work mate! :up:

How does it handle with no forkbrace or any kind? I love the look with no guard on the front...think I might rip the one of my Yella :chin:
 

Bonafide

NBR founder
Your photobucket is timing out and not displaying pics. Do you mind uploading the pics into the file manager here? Thanks.
 

Bonniebret

Rocker
Wow!! That looks great as does the geometry of the bike. Let us know how it handles. I would consider doing that to my bike.
 

Texas94fs

Hooligan
Love the part and color mix.
Couple of questions please:
Are the forks the same length as stock Thrux? Is the resulting ride height front and rear different with the shorter wheels and tires?
Lastly, how does the bike handle and feel compared to stock?

The forks are 1 inch longer, to get the same geometry you must slide the fork tubes up one inch through the triples.

The ride height is a little bit lower, i couldn't give you an exact height however.

It quite literally isn't the same bike. Turn in is much easier, it feels more stable and brakes are awesome. I do not have the front suspension dialed in or tuned at the moment, but already you can feel the weak link in the suspension is now the rear of the bike. The bike lost half the weight of the old front wheel, and about 5 lbs on the rear.The unsprung weight loss and resulting nimbleness of all the other things makes getting in trouble very easy, and the lighter front end well on hard throttle (with my skinny ass on it) will see air. It is remarkable
 

Texas94fs

Hooligan
Lovely work mate! :up:

How does it handle with no forkbrace or any kind? I love the look with no guard on the front...think I might rip the one of my Yella :chin:

I haven't noticed much without the fork brace, but I made so many changes at once that I couldn't pin anything down to that. I'm going to bug someone to try their thruxtons fork brace and see if it will fit on the f3 forks, to add more rigidity. Yes the no fender look is great, until you hit a puddle or it rains, then all the water goes right into you. It's always good to have the option. I thought about picking up the f3 front fender but it just wouldnt flow at all with the rest of the bike so fenderless I go.
 

Speed3Chris

I like Dick
The forks are 1 inch longer, to get the same geometry you must slide the fork tubes up one inch through the triples.

The ride height is a little bit lower, i couldn't give you an exact height however.

It quite literally isn't the same bike. Turn in is much easier, it feels more stable and brakes are awesome. I do not have the front suspension dialed in or tuned at the moment, but already you can feel the weak link in the suspension is now the rear of the bike. The bike lost half the weight of the old front wheel, and about 5 lbs on the rear.The unsprung weight loss and resulting nimbleness of all the other things makes getting in trouble very easy, and the lighter front end well on hard throttle (with my skinny ass on it) will see air. It is remarkable
Thanks Texas for sharing your insight and talent with us. I was wondering if the change in unsprung weight transformed the riding experience and sounds like it has.
Your thread reminds me that I could take my T100 with even heavier wheels than your stock Thruxton in your direction and skip the Thruxton step completely :)...by changing to F3 wheels and forks. All I would need is some Thrux triple trees as they are drilled with a more upright rake as you know. Your transformation is also cool because it is cost effective...lots of F3 parts around so the bonny/Thrux can be transformed closer to sport bike handling for a reasonable cost.
Thanks again.
 
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Texas94fs

Hooligan
Thanks Texas for sharing your insight and talent with us. I was wondering if the change in unsprung weight transformed the riding experience and sounds like it has.
Your thread reminds me that I could take my T100 with even heavier wheels than your stock Thruxton in your direction and skip the Thruxton step completely :)...by changing to F3 wheels and forks. All I would need is some Thrux triple trees as they are drilled with a more upright rake as you know. Your transformation is also cool because it is cost effective...lots of F3 parts around so the bonny/Thrux can be transformed closer to sport bike handling for a reasonable cost.
Thanks again.

Yup, total cost with the extra bits and powdercoating a few extra things was around $11-1200 dollars, good thing is you can sell the bits you are taking off your bike and make a considerable amount of that back.
 
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