K&N air filter for stock setup

DavidC

DavidC

Rocker
The K&N filter - sold as a liftetime replacement? What's the advantage over the stock filter? Simply because it lasts longer? Or does it filter better?
I have the airbox and all that stuff but need to replace my original [12k. miles].
I have no plans on removing the airbox and such, although one never knows, do one....
 
B

Baltobonneville

750cc
Maybe no advantage. I have a Uni, with the messy cleaning process, and am thinking of going back to the paper filter to see if it makes a difference.

Ventura, on the "other" forum, did a series of a/f tests and found that the filter doesn't make much difference. There was also a more scholarly paper posted somewhere that said the same thing.
 
Capo

Capo

Scooter
I did the K and N, along with a Polaris bellmouth. I suppose, in conjunction with the TORs and re-jet, it all works together to improve performance, but not sure what the K&N alone did. A bit more induction roard at WOT, fer shure.

Reminds me of 'Jersey ram- air' from the 70's...flip over the air cleaner lid on your small block to get the air sucking sound and add .001 HP.
 
NewOldSchool

NewOldSchool

Two Stroke
Capo said:
Reminds me of 'Jersey ram- air' from the 70's...flip over the air cleaner lid on your small block to get the air sucking sound and add .001 HP.
Click to expand...

:lol3: Yeah I did that... and from Dirty Jersey.



Supposed to flow better (K&N) compared to the stock paper. But with the same restrictions of the airbox. I wonder if it is much better. I put in a UNI but also removed the restrictor plate and snorkel. It was more peppy... but didnt notice any great gain. revved up faster tho.
 
J

Jimi X

moped
All things being set up correctly, if you change from paper to a K&N you will have the potential for greater air flow/less restriction with a K&N filter. To optimize the change you should re-jet. Hmmmm,...if you are using a 115 jet increase to a 120. If you have stock mufflers on her, you will probably only notice a little difference. To get the most from the upgrade, pull out the restrictor plate, change the mufflers to something more free flowing. Start with a 128 jet and test. If you have dyno access it will make dialing in much simpler. If not increase in small steps until max response is achieved. You may have to adjust your idle mixture as well because of the larger main jet size.
 
DavidC

DavidC

Rocker
Jimi X said:
Hmmmm,...if you are using a 115 jet increase to a 120. If you have stock mufflers on her, you will probably only notice a little difference.
Click to expand...

I have, I believe 115 main jets, TORs, and the mixture 3 turns out [maybe 2 3/4? used Jenks guide] on this Bonneville.
 
C

CAPTDON

Street Tracker
K&N

For the $$- I stuck w/ the stock filter. Can blow it out & it will last (unless in dirt road) a long time. No real perf advantage, just can re-use it? DX the snork tho!! That WILL give ya some hi end ummph!! I see no reason to dx the airbox as well. Just the snork- a 5 min endeavor!
 
DavidC

DavidC

Rocker
CAPTDON said:
For the $$- I stuck w/ the stock filter. Can blow it out & it will last (unless in dirt road) a long time. No real perf advantage, just can re-use it? DX the snork tho!! That WILL give ya some hi end ummph!! I see no reason to dx the airbox as well. Just the snork- a 5 min endeavor!
Click to expand...

Where do you buy the stock filters, Capt? Through the dealer?
 
J

Jimi X

moped
With 120's in and TOR's the difference will be noticeable. I thought you had stock cans on it. I have TOR"s on mine, the straight through variety. I noticed a difference.
Right now, with your setup, the biggest bottleneck is the restrictor plate. You can remove the right side of the air box and remove the restrictor plate. The PITA factor is real high. There are 2 screws directly behind the frame. They are a bugger but they can be removed. Then just pull the bugger out. (Some twisting and cursing will help here!). Then re-assemble.

You won't get the flow of pods but quite an improvement. Your main jet size, like I said,...Start around 128 to 130 and increase if necessary. I run 130's and my altitude for riding is 3,400ft. or higher.
 
koifarm

koifarm

Hooligan
How bad could it really be to eliminate any filter? Back in the day, I just slapped a set of velocity stacks on the carbs on my 71 and ran the shit out of my bonnie. Never had a problem with anything getting sucked into the engine. Ran mostly on asphalt but every now and then a dirt road. Did a head job at about 60k, replaced a valve, measured the cylinders and they were still in spec.
with the new bonnies, if you were to pull the filter and leave the airbox connected, would there really be a problem considering all the things in the way before the air gets to the carbs. It would seem that it would work.
Any thoughts on that?
 
J

Jimi X

moped
I dunno? Maybe the best flow with the protection. On the average street bike,...A good idea always. If not used, maybe a little quicker engine wear, that's on the positive side, or possible catastrophic failure inhaling a foreign object, on the down side. I'm betting on quicker engine wear. That being said, one dusty ride could really fuck up an engine.

I've run open carbs myself. I got away with it.

I run a K&N on my new Bonnie.
 
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Kirkus51

Kirkus51

Hooligan
What the hell, I went with the K&N and am happy as a clam. Although how happy is a clam?? I also bought a crancase breather filter. That might make as much difference as an air filter change. Gotta let the ol pump, well pump!!
 
1087

1087

Vendor
For stock bikes or bikes with the Power Pack, K&N are a good product, will flow more than the stock element with the advantage of a Lifetime Warranty.
For big bores and Hot Rod motors there are better filters for maximum flow, albeit not for Lifetime.
 
Hedge

Hedge

American Infidel
I have been using K&N on all my stuff for as long as I can remember and have never been disappointed! The best part is the recharge cleaning kits!
 
mikenva

mikenva

Rocker
koifarm said:
How bad could it really be to eliminate any filter? Back in the day, I just slapped a set of velocity stacks on the carbs on my 71 and ran the shit out of my bonnie. Never had a problem with anything getting sucked into the engine. Ran mostly on asphalt but every now and then a dirt road. Did a head job at about 60k, replaced a valve, measured the cylinders and they were still in spec.
with the new bonnies, if you were to pull the filter and leave the airbox connected, would there really be a problem considering all the things in the way before the air gets to the carbs. It would seem that it would work.
Any thoughts on that?
Click to expand...
Not running a filter is just plan dumb you might of gor by with it and still might but I have seen what dirt can do to motors over the years.You might get by with out changeing oil to but that dont make it the right thing to do .
 
MattRat

MattRat

TT Racer
if you're going to all the trouble of getting in to pulling the restrictor plate, how much more work if it to just cut up the airbox and put on pods? seems like if you're gonna go that far, you may as well go all the way.
 
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