Gretsch
Rocker
Walter - "Nothing is fucked here dude."
Bummer.... Anyone want to buy some 45 pilots & 155 mains? I'll throw in the shims for free....
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Jets
- Thread starter Gretsch
- Start date
Walter - "Nothing is fucked here dude."
Bummer.... Anyone want to buy some 45 pilots & 155 mains? I'll throw in the shims for free....
BlueJ
Blue Haired Freak
The calculator is for a Speedmaster/America with a different airbox and different size pipes, no?
steamfitter
Two Stroke
listen to sweat! he knows that which he speaks!-keith
Gretsch
Rocker
Yeah that's what I'm doing mang. I just wish I would have asked before ordering the 45/155 setup.
sweatmachine
moped
I don't know what your cash situation is, but I have this
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/g5_gauge.php
It's an INCREDIBLE tool for jetting. It works very well. I thought I had my bike tuned in pretty well, I'd even had it on the dyno and laid down a good a/f ratio. Turns out I was pig-stinking rich almost everywhere! I was running as rich as 10:1 in some places. After a few days of playing with the gauge and making some jetting changes my bike is running between 12.5-1 and 13.5-1 throughout the range. I'm still playing with the jetting to get it even more nailed down. Seat of the pants tuning is for suckers!
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/g5_gauge.php
It's an INCREDIBLE tool for jetting. It works very well. I thought I had my bike tuned in pretty well, I'd even had it on the dyno and laid down a good a/f ratio. Turns out I was pig-stinking rich almost everywhere! I was running as rich as 10:1 in some places. After a few days of playing with the gauge and making some jetting changes my bike is running between 12.5-1 and 13.5-1 throughout the range. I'm still playing with the jetting to get it even more nailed down. Seat of the pants tuning is for suckers!
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Gretsch
Rocker
I don't know what your cash situation is, but I have this
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/g5_gauge.php
It's an INCREDIBLE tool for jetting. It works very well. I thought I had my bike tuned in pretty well, I'd even had it on the dyno and laid down a good a/f ratio. Turns out I was pig-stinking rich almost everywhere! I was running as rich as 10:1 in some places. After a few days of playing with the gauge and making some jetting changes my bike is running between 12.5-1 and 13.5-1 throughout the range. I'm still playing with the jetting to get it even more nailed down. Seat of the pants tuning is for suckers!
OK now that's just freaking cool! It looks a little expensive. I couldn't see where I could buy one from the company on that link but I did find it with Google shopping. Does it mount to the bike permanently or can you use it as needed?
sweatmachine
moped
You can mount it permanently or temporarily, it's up to you. I have mine kinda rigged on the bike now. The only permanent thing is you have to weld a bung into the exhaust pipes for the sensor. The bung is included in the kit. Most guys with stock headers mount the bung in the crossover part of the exhaust pipes to keep it out of the way.
I rigged up a simple wiring harness for mine. It's connected to the battery terminals and there is an on/off switch for the gauge. Originally I had planned on just using it as a tuning tool and then removing it after the bike was tuned, but it's such a neat gauge that I might mount it more permanently eventually. It works really well.
Here's their online store, they have many different kits you can buy. Some are dataloggers and some are simple gauges like mine:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/home.php?cat=262
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/home.php?cat=261
I rigged up a simple wiring harness for mine. It's connected to the battery terminals and there is an on/off switch for the gauge. Originally I had planned on just using it as a tuning tool and then removing it after the bike was tuned, but it's such a neat gauge that I might mount it more permanently eventually. It works really well.
Here's their online store, they have many different kits you can buy. Some are dataloggers and some are simple gauges like mine:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/home.php?cat=262
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/home.php?cat=261
Gretsch
Rocker
Right now I'm running 42/140. I think Sean sent me 135s too so I might switch to that until I can get the 130s. I might as well order 125s too.
sweatmachine
moped
well, I don't have stock carbs, I have the Mikuni HSR 42mm flatslides, but in case you still want to know I'm running 97 needles in the top position (5 way adjustable needles), and 140 mains. I can't remember what pilots b/c they're the ones that came in the carbs.
sweatmachine
moped
I've done something like 12-16 dyno runs on my bike. I found a local guy that charges $40 for 4 runs which is a great deal, but that only includes the use of the dyno, he doesn't do any tuning which is fine by me.
The dyno is great for tuning the main jet and seeing what a/f ratio makes the best power. Some bikes like 13-1, some 12.5-1, some 13.5-1 etc, but with carbs you can only get so close. The proper way to tune carbs is to get the main jet correct then tune the rest of the carb to that main jet.
In my opinion dyno runs are great for tuning the main jet, but this gauge is better due to being on the road and in the real world. You can tune the idle, needles, mains, etc all on the road.
Dyno rooms create weird air pressure, some suck so much air out of the room that the pressure is so low it's like being in a hurricane. You want a good high pressure day for tuning and making the most hp.
I love this gauge! I can take a spin, rejet, and go out again and see exactly what difference in a/f ratio the jetting changes made.
All in all though, I would suggest both getting the gauge and making a trip to the dyno. As soon as I feel I have my bike pretty well tuned in (and I'm very close now) I'm going to make a trip back to the dyno to compare the dyno a/f printout to what I'm seeing on the gauge.
The dyno is great for tuning the main jet and seeing what a/f ratio makes the best power. Some bikes like 13-1, some 12.5-1, some 13.5-1 etc, but with carbs you can only get so close. The proper way to tune carbs is to get the main jet correct then tune the rest of the carb to that main jet.
In my opinion dyno runs are great for tuning the main jet, but this gauge is better due to being on the road and in the real world. You can tune the idle, needles, mains, etc all on the road.
Dyno rooms create weird air pressure, some suck so much air out of the room that the pressure is so low it's like being in a hurricane. You want a good high pressure day for tuning and making the most hp.
I love this gauge! I can take a spin, rejet, and go out again and see exactly what difference in a/f ratio the jetting changes made.
All in all though, I would suggest both getting the gauge and making a trip to the dyno. As soon as I feel I have my bike pretty well tuned in (and I'm very close now) I'm going to make a trip back to the dyno to compare the dyno a/f printout to what I'm seeing on the gauge.
BlueJ
Blue Haired Freak
Our local $60/4 pulls dyno shop closed down earlier this year. The closest one I've found so far is a shop that charges $150/hour for dyno time, in one-hour increments. I think I'm close enough now that I'd be better off playing with the AF gauge for fine-tuning than more $$ on the dyno. But, once I'm dialled in, I don't need the thing. I wish I could find one where you put the sensor inside the muffler.
sweatmachine
moped
the problem with that is the sensor needs to be closer to the head to be accurate. At/near the muffler there's air coming in from the outside plus the exhaust temp isn't as hot and the exhaust loses velocity at that distance from the head. When I was installing the bung Innovate told me they work best something like 18-24" from the head.
You could get a bung welded in your crossover pipe (haha, that sounds funny) and it wouldn't be that obvious.
BlueJ
Blue Haired Freak
No, but it would really fuck up the ceramic coating.
sweatmachine
moped
what color is your ceramic coating? Black if I remember correctly? You could mount it in the center of the crossover then hit it with BBQ paint around the bung. It wouldn't be noticeable. The bung and the surrounding weld is just about 1" in dia.
You'll have to figure that part out. Three main things need to be done:
-There's a bung for the sensor that needs to be welded in your exhaust pipe
-The brain for the unit needs to be wired in and mounted (I zip tied mine to the frame backbone under the gas tank, it works well and is hidden). The wiring isn't bad. The unit needs one constant +, one switched +, and a ground, plus a couple of wires run from the brain to the gauge.
-the gauge needs to be mounted.
My one main complaint with this kit is the gauge seems kinda flimsy, like it's meant to be mounted in a car dash, not on a motorcycle. It's not a motorcycle specific kit afterall, so no harm on their part. When I mount mine permanently I'm going to get a proper gauge cup for the gauge to make it a little sturdier.