Finally!!! After 41K miles...

[neuroboy]

let's look at the bigger picture here, 41k miles and you're still running the stock pipes? Again, :wtf:

heh.



for the record: i got my d&d's, flyscreen, and thrux seat/rear fender for next to nothing by being patient and relying on the limitless good will of the guys on this here forum. . . but I see where he's coming from. I don't have a ton of extra cash to spend and customizing has been a) pretty much the bolt-on type and b) a slow process. . . I bought used, though, and never had to manage payments and the requisite increase in insurance.

 

[Bonniebret]

Thanks for the great read, guys. Whoops! Off topic!

 

[jphickory]

:bug:

 

[Mike Britton]

Now now girls, you are all pretty! don't fight!!!

 

[tooblekain]

Ahem... *steps in between* So...how long are chains and sprockets supposed to last? I got almost 20K on my originals with no problems... so far. No wheelies or speedshifts probably extend the life and I'm pretty anal about lubin' it...

That's a good question. At 20k my chain was just like yours too...I lubed it religiously and checked for slack once or twice a month and it was all good. It was around the 30K mark that I can feel the bike buck and surge just a little bit but thought nothing of it and knew most likely my chain is worn. However slack was still pretty good...a little on the loose side but I prefer a loose chain than a chain too tight. At the 38k mile mark that I noticed I can pull the chain from the rear as well. Chain slack was still pretty good, but getting a little loose. At 40.7K the bucking and surging got really bad and when I went to adjust the chain no matter how I adjusted it I either got it right and was tight all around or a little past tolerance but the tightspot was as tight as a drum skin. At that point I just slacked it off a little more but my chain was practically drooping. I then waited for my chains and sprockets (because I was getting a phat hookup) on them and putting off riding as much as I can. So then at 41,0xx miles I finally made the change.

My trackbike...my Daytona 675 has close to 20K miles and the chain slack is still pretty good but I can see light when pull my chain from the rear sprocket. When I went to tech inspection for my last trackday the guy noticed my chain was a little tight. I readjusted tension on it but my D675's chain is on its last legs now too. I've already put in an order for that. Im going to do a 520 conversion on the D675 and go -1 up front and +1 on the rear.

 

[sweatmachine]

Hickory Dickory: We're all (well, ahem, mostly) friends here. I was busting Tooblekain's balls a little bit in a friendly way. You jumped in between us and started a pissing match. You're relatively inactive here, perhaps that explains the misunderstanding. I'm a direct guy, and I'll respond directly when poked, either on the internet or in reality. I wasn't "flaming" anyone, except maybe you.

Back on topic, my Bonnie's chain was pretty toasted at just about 24k miles, so I replaced it along with the sprockets. I'm a pretty regular chain luber/cleaner too. I don't have a centerstand on my Bonnie, and never wanted one until I got my FZ1. The FZ1 has a centerstand and it makes chain lubing/cleaning a breeze.

 

[koifarm]

I'm waiting for the knives, guns and grenades to come out of hiding...this is fun....

:beer: :snack: :lol3:

 

[tooblekain]

I'm waiting for the knives, guns and grenades to come out of hiding...this is fun....

:beer: :snack: :lol3:

I dont have any of the weapons you listed above...but I do have a "throwing star" that I made with my old sprockets. It actually is a nice piece of art work.

 

[jphickory]

Hickory Dickory: We're all (well, ahem, mostly) friends here. I was busting Tooblekain's balls a little bit in a friendly way. You jumped in between us and started a pissing match. You're relatively inactive here, perhaps that explains the misunderstanding. I'm a direct guy, and I'll respond directly when poked, either on the internet or in reality. I wasn't "flaming" anyone, except maybe you.

Back on topic, my Bonnie's chain was pretty toasted at just about 24k miles, so I replaced it along with the sprockets. I'm a pretty regular chain luber/cleaner too. I don't have a centerstand on my Bonnie, and never wanted one until I got my FZ1. The FZ1 has a centerstand and it makes chain lubing/cleaning a breeze.

If you are a direct guy then you should understand - if you call me an ass for no reason - you're going to hear from me.

I agree about the center stand making cleaning, lubing and adjusting very convenient. I resisted installing one for several years but now feel the extra ease of maintenance is a fair tradeoff for the additional weight and dollars. spent.

 

[Mike Britton]

On the subject of chains,who likes what for chain lube ? i used to have friend who used nothing but WD40 for chain lube ! I could never get him to understand that all he was doing was cleaning his chain !

 

[tooblekain]

I use DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Dry lube. Available only from Lowe's. Its only $5-6 and doesnt make a mess.

 

[BlueJ]

+1. Agree. If sweat ever mellowed out, this forum wouldn't be the same!

You haven't been paying attention. He's mellowed a LOT!!

Chain question, tho: I know they wear out, but the OP was talking about some symptoms that sounded more like the tension needed adjusting than anything else. How do you tell the diff between a maladjusted chain and an worn one? At 20K miles, and not a hyper-religious luber, I'd like to know....

 

[slowgator]

You haven't been paying attention. He's mellowed a LOT!!

Chain question, tho: I know they wear out, but the OP was talking about some symptoms that sounded more like the tension needed adjusting than anything else. How do you tell the diff between a maladjusted chain and an worn one? At 20K miles, and not a hyper-religious luber, I'd like to know....

And so would I!

 

[sweatmachine]

They get tight spots. They can't be adjusted correctly, eventually. It would be way too loose at one point, and way too tight at another point in the chain's rotation. They're good for about 20-25k and that's about it. The links seize up.

 

[BlueJ]

And how can you tell? Anything about the ride that would change?

 

[sweatmachine]

It will literally shake the whole bike as the chain goes loose/tight. You can even hear it. Like, "wah, wah, wah, wah", more discernable on decel than under throttle.

Get the bike up on a jack or on the centerstand and turn the wheel. The chain will be loose at one point and tight at another.

 

[Flaco]

I can say it in four words...
"Get a Haynes Manual"...:brit:

 

[BlueJ]

I have a Haynes manual, thank you very much!

 

[tooblekain]

You haven't been paying attention. He's mellowed a LOT!!

Chain question, tho: I know they wear out, but the OP was talking about some symptoms that sounded more like the tension needed adjusting than anything else. How do you tell the diff between a maladjusted chain and an worn one? At 20K miles, and not a hyper-religious luber, I'd like to know....

Maladjustment is easy to check. First, DO NOT rely on the hash marks on the swingarm chain adjusters...they are not too accurate. How I measure/match symetry of the chain adjusters is by measuring the distance between the center of the swingarm pivot bolt to the center of the axle on both sides. Both should measure equal distance. Doing this, you can eliminate the chance of maladjustment.

They get tight spots. They can't be adjusted correctly, eventually. It would be way too loose at one point, and way too tight at another point in the chain's rotation. They're good for about 20-25k and that's about it. The links seize up.

+1. I was always adjusting mine and then eventually after trying so much you get to a point when you rotate the rear wheel you can see the chain get really really tight and then really really loose. No matter how much effort you try to put it to its proper slack you cannot. You either can put it at its proper slack but then you'll see when you rotate the wheel the chain will at certain points get super tight like you think the chain will snap. At that point its best to get the tightest spots on the chain to proper slack but then you'll see the loose spots on the chain will have way too much slack....like practically inches of play. In my case...it was like 6 inches of play. :ignore:

It will literally shake the whole bike as the chain goes loose/tight. You can even hear it. Like, "wah, wah, wah, wah", more discernable on decel than under throttle.

Get the bike up on a jack or on the centerstand and turn the wheel. The chain will be loose at one point and tight at another.

With other bikes I felt you will feel the bike surge back and forth (forward and back) when off the gas and coasting. If you find a nice steep hill and let it coast in neutral you may be able to hear the chain too rotating and making clicking noises everytime it goes around its tight spot

 

[Stars&Bars]

I always hear about the 520 conversion but has anyone gone the other way and installed a 530 chain and sprockets? For those of us not looking to pinch off every last oz of weight savings, is there any benefit to the over-built philosophy in regards to a drive chain? This has been a thought I've kept on the back burner in my mind for a time now. Any thoughts?