crazy idea....

Sal Paradise

Hooligan
Very doable and you don't need the Norton. Here you go:

SeeThruThruxton.jpg

I'm curious what the weight of that bike is.....
 

Texas94fs

Hooligan
I'd imagine around 440-460 wet. The wheels are very light, the exhaust is very light and the battery being smaller removing the box and passenger peg removal took off a bit. But the steel frame and motor are where the weight of this bike is. That is about as light as you could get the bike without serious frame modification. The next step for him would be an alum swingarm that would take a nice chunk of weight off. He didnt really save much weight with the suspension components, if any at all. So at the most he removed 50lbs, but in reality probably more like 30. Just the f3 swap netting me a 15lb loss from the wheels.
 

Texas94fs

Hooligan
sv650 wheels just look better than backwards F3 wheels IMO.

sv650 or F3 would be cheaper and how much would you really lose? I mean if you had an Expert rating at the track maybe you would have the skill and ability to notice, but for most riders on the street? Probably not that much.

That said Ohlins, Brembos, and forged alloy wheels are pretty. Ain't nothin' wrong with shinny toys!

I just think that yellow bike is really beautiful.

The wheel swap is hugely noticeable even just on the street. no expert class needed. On the track you notice a giant difference. Just the uprgrade in tires you have to do switching to the wheels is immense. The better suspension and smaller front wheel diameter really make the bike more sporting in its handling characteristics.
 

em_dot

Street Tracker
The wheel swap is hugely noticeable even just on the street. no expert class needed.

Yep, I said that poorly. My point was how much difference on the street would there be between an sv650 or F3 swap vs. Ohlins front and rear.

No argument on the stock wheel/suspension. My Alpina STS kit and suspension upgrades on my Bonnie taught me that.
 

Texas94fs

Hooligan
Yep, I said that poorly. My point was how much difference on the street would there be between an sv650 or F3 swap vs. Ohlins front and rear.

No argument on the stock wheel/suspension. My Alpina STS kit and suspension upgrades on my Bonnie taught me that.

Ah now I see what you meant. Yea, unless you were reaching the limits or had vastly better tires, so long as you had the f3 or sv setup properly tuned you would really only notice it on the track pushing. in fact on the street the f3 or sv setup would be a bit more comfortable for around town stuff.
 
So any of you guys that did the front end swap on Bonnevilles or Thruxtons...

did you use an F3 front end? If so do the forks have preload, compression and rebound adjustments?

Im seriously thinking about doing a front end swap on my Bonnie
 
Hey Sweat, is that the stock rear suspension? Seems odd to change everything and leave that stock! Can't be...

Yes and no. They aren't the stock Bonnie shocks but they are factory Thruxton shocks. I would like better ones but I was playing with shocks of different lengths and these work just fine.
 

Texas94fs

Hooligan
So any of you guys that did the front end swap on Bonnevilles or Thruxtons...

did you use an F3 front end? If so do the forks have preload, compression and rebound adjustments?

Im seriously thinking about doing a front end swap on my Bonnie

Used the F3 front end, it has preload and rebound damping. the compression is only adjustable through shimming and revalving. SO technically yes, but no external adjustments.
 
Like the sv650 wheels, do they fit fairly easy or is there any machining or do you just need to make up spacers. Like the look of the double disc's as well ...nice
 

strokerlmt

Moderator
Like the sv650 wheels, do they fit fairly easy or is there any machining or do you just need to make up spacers. Like the look of the double disc's as well ...nice

you know I was intimidated about spacers etc. But I feel it is not rocket science. Get a long straight edge and a pile of spacers different sizes / widths for the Tri axle and line up your front wheel with the back.
LMT
 

Texas94fs

Hooligan
Used the F3 front end, it has preload and rebound damping. the compression is only adjustable through shimming and revalving. SO technically yes, but no external adjustments.

I meant to say external adjustments for everything but compression damping. ooops.
 
you know I was intimidated about spacers etc. But I feel it is not rocket science. Get a long straight edge and a pile of spacers different sizes / widths for the Tri axle and line up your front wheel with the back.
LMT

Thanks LMT, just did not think it would be as simple as that usualy when I do any thing it turns out to be a major job...lol
 
I have no SV experience. What do you need to make ?
LMT

There's a lot of stuff that has to happen to make the sv650 wheels (or any other wheels) work on the Bonnie. The sprockets have to line up, on the sv650 wheels that means the sprocket carrier/cush drive has to be milled down about 15mm. A custom rear brake rotor has to be made that is the same diameter as the Bonnie rear brake rotor but fits the sv650 bolt pattern. The neck stem has to be pressed out from the Bonnie bottom triple tree and into the sv650 bottom triple tree (spacers have to be made for this to work). The sv650 top clamp has to be milled down a bit, and custom fork stops have to be figured.

There's a lot more to it than just "a long straight edge and a pile of spacers different sizes / widths for the Tri axle"

Anyone who would buy a pile of spacers is a fool with more money than sense. Buy a set of measuring calipers and figure out what you need before buying a bunch of shit that you can't use.
 

strokerlmt

Moderator
There's a lot of stuff that has to happen to make the sv650 wheels (or any other wheels) work on the Bonnie. The sprockets have to line up, on the sv650 wheels that means the sprocket carrier/cush drive has to be milled down about 15mm. A custom rear brake rotor has to be made that is the same diameter as the Bonnie rear brake rotor but fits the sv650 bolt pattern. The neck stem has to be pressed out from the Bonnie bottom triple tree and into the sv650 bottom triple tree (spacers have to be made for this to work). The sv650 top clamp has to be milled down a bit, and custom fork stops have to be figured.

There's a lot more to it than just "a long straight edge and a pile of spacers different sizes / widths for the Tri axle"

Anyone who would buy a pile of spacers is a fool with more money than sense. Buy a set of measuring calipers and figure out what you need before buying a bunch of shit that you can't use.


SW you ruin a great post with some good info with your fucked up immature attitude.
 

strokerlmt

Moderator
You do know what you are talking about. Some people here, like me, can learn from your experiences. As I was drifting through this thread I was thinking about how I lined up my alloys, with the help from a Triumph mechanic I know. I have no hands on knowledge of the SV wheels hence my question to you. I don't need to hide behind a computer and call anyone a fool with no sense. As you say "whatever". You will figure it out one day. Did you decide on a new bike yet?
LMT
 
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