Very doable and you don't need the Norton. Here you go:
sv650 wheels just look better than backwards F3 wheels IMO.
sv650 or F3 would be cheaper and how much would you really lose? I mean if you had an Expert rating at the track maybe you would have the skill and ability to notice, but for most riders on the street? Probably not that much.
That said Ohlins, Brembos, and forged alloy wheels are pretty. Ain't nothin' wrong with shinny toys!
I just think that yellow bike is really beautiful.
The wheel swap is hugely noticeable even just on the street. no expert class needed.
Yep, I said that poorly. My point was how much difference on the street would there be between an sv650 or F3 swap vs. Ohlins front and rear.
No argument on the stock wheel/suspension. My Alpina STS kit and suspension upgrades on my Bonnie taught me that.
Hey Sweat, is that the stock rear suspension? Seems odd to change everything and leave that stock! Can't be...
So any of you guys that did the front end swap on Bonnevilles or Thruxtons...
did you use an F3 front end? If so do the forks have preload, compression and rebound adjustments?
Im seriously thinking about doing a front end swap on my Bonnie
Like the sv650 wheels, do they fit fairly easy or is there any machining or do you just need to make up spacers. Like the look of the double disc's as well ...nice
Used the F3 front end, it has preload and rebound damping. the compression is only adjustable through shimming and revalving. SO technically yes, but no external adjustments.
you know I was intimidated about spacers etc. But I feel it is not rocket science. Get a long straight edge and a pile of spacers different sizes / widths for the Tri axle and line up your front wheel with the back.
LMT
The SV wheels require a lot more than just spacers to work. There is quite a bit of machining that has to be done.
I have no SV experience. What do you need to make ?
LMT
There's a lot of stuff that has to happen to make the sv650 wheels (or any other wheels) work on the Bonnie. The sprockets have to line up, on the sv650 wheels that means the sprocket carrier/cush drive has to be milled down about 15mm. A custom rear brake rotor has to be made that is the same diameter as the Bonnie rear brake rotor but fits the sv650 bolt pattern. The neck stem has to be pressed out from the Bonnie bottom triple tree and into the sv650 bottom triple tree (spacers have to be made for this to work). The sv650 top clamp has to be milled down a bit, and custom fork stops have to be figured.
There's a lot more to it than just "a long straight edge and a pile of spacers different sizes / widths for the Tri axle"
Anyone who would buy a pile of spacers is a fool with more money than sense. Buy a set of measuring calipers and figure out what you need before buying a bunch of shit that you can't use.
SW you ruin a great post with some good info with your fucked up immature attitude.