Starting your Engine after it has been sitting for a long time – by Modre

Hedge

American Infidel
Spring is around the corner...a young man's fancy turns to love...but he's not quite sure what to do, or where to turn... suppose you didn't do all the proper care...the engine's been sitting...the carbs are bone dry...the battery is a couple years old...and it's in an un-electrified remote area where help is not at hand, and a real fix is a pain in the posterior...let's say it's in a barn in the backwoods with bad lighting, and all muddy roads lead up. You got one shot at it.

Here are some tricks that will give you the best shot at the one shot you got to make it happen. First cold oil drags the available juice...so wait until a 50+ degree day instead of a 40 degree day...60 is better yet...no sense killing the sickly battery, and if it does start and you don't get it to operating temps and a goodly charge, the next time you try will bite you. Sit it in the sun for warmth if you have to. Park it close behind your car exhaust to heat the cases and thin the oil...heat is your friend here...every degree makes a difference. Then turn on the petcock to reserve (gas may have evaporated below the normal "on" position...take that variable out of the equation) and let the carbs fill...they're bone dry...don't be hasty to hit the crank button...give the carb float bowls time to replenish

Next, spritz a shot of ether in the air cleaner...doesn't take much, and a shot of ether will save the egg shape of your starter bearings in endless cranking...and fire on a battery at the borderline much better than cold gas that doesn't want to atomize. Cranking for long periods also heats up the windings, and heat is wasted electric. Make sure (in neutral) the side stand, clutch lever, kill button, choke, and key are right...don't be cranking away THEN find you overlooked something silly. Line up all the ducks. A percentage of engines that 98% of people fail to start, MAY start if you know ALL the right tricks.

If you only have one shot at this...don't short-cut...every detail here may make the difference when failure looms...everything I say is for a specific purpose...don't re-invent the wheel. If you have to run and bump it... choose second gear, not first. Get it to speed just before your heart breaks out of your chest, and as you pop the clutch, bounce down to make sure the rear isn't going to skid against compression...after that. It’s an art between clutch in or out...and I can't teach that...but I know what to do when it happens.
Then run it long enough to reach operating temp and give the battery a good charge...if it fails after that, you spring for a battery.
 

Oxblood

750cc
If you have to run and bump it... choose second gear, not first. Get it to speed just before your heart breaks out of your chest, and as you pop the clutch, bounce down to make sure the rear isn't going to skid against compression...after that. It’s an art between clutch in or out...and I can't teach that...but I know what to do when it happens.
Then run it long enough to reach operating temp and give the battery a good charge...if it fails after that, you spring for a battery.


Does bump starting even work on our bikes? I know the last time I left my heated grips on and killed the battery I pushed my bike around enough to take off my coat in 19° weather and the bike still wouldn't run. A not so quick trickle charge and I haven't had a problem since.

--Oxblood
 

Kirkus51

Hooligan
My best advice on starting your bike after a few months is to put a battery tender on your bike in the Fall and keep it plugged in during the Winter months.
Barring that, when you're preparing to start your bike, if it's still cold outside, take the battery out of the bike and take it where it's nice and warm, like your house, to get it nice and warm, then put it back in the bike ASAP.
And Hedge is right, the warmer the better.
 
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